Solo tour of Bhutan , Darjeeling and Gangtok.

 During my stay at "Vinaday.com inn" in  Ho Chi Minh(Saigon) on  my solo  tour of Vietnam and Cambodia in December -2013  happened to meet  Mr Vincent.Yeoh.Koh of Singapore, an avid World  traveler .He  made me realize the advantage of being a Indian national for  visiting Bhutan as he  had personally toured the Country and was charmed by its  natural beauty barring  the exorbitant  cost of touring this tiny Himalayan Kingdom also called the Last Shangrila. All foreigners have to pay a minimum of U.S $250/Day to a local registered travel agent  for visiting Bhutan, except Indian Nationals , making it the costliest tourist destination for a majority of economy or backpacker  World tourists. I was amazed at my ignorance on Bhutan.As usual  on returning to Mumbai  from my tour planned my logistics from my home in Mumbai , the "Internet" being my robotic companion. Paro is the only airport in Bhutan while Bagdogra in West Bengal is the nearest airport to Gangtok or Darjeeling.I decided to  opt for the cheaper but tedious and time consuming adventurer route of train travel from Mumbai to New Jalpaiguri Station in West Bengal.It would be  a lengthy journey of  approx 2185 Kms  by the "15645/Guwahati Express".From  New Jalpaiguri station  it would be another approx 240 Kms by road travel to Thimphu, the Capital of Bhutan. Hence decided that my next solo marathon travel  adventure tour would be Bhutan and the North -East Indian  hill-stations of Darjeeling in West Bengal  and Gangtok in Sikkim by train and road transport .
 . On Tuesday(14-1-2014)  visited "Samarth Services" in Worli fish market and booked a A/c train ticket (Rs1850 approx)  on the "15645/Guwahati Express"  from Mumbai to New Jalpaiguri(NJP) station in the State of  West Bengal.My scheduled date of travel  from  "Lokmanyatilak Terminus(LTT) " in Mumbai was Saturday(8-3-2014).A week later booked my train tickets for the return journey to Mumbai as its easier to get plane tickets than train tickets in India and hence a minimum of 2 months advance booking is the norm.

Air  & Land Route for touring  Bhutan  and  Indian hill-station of Darjeeling  and  State of Sikkim 

Saturday(8-3-2014) :-  Boarded Nos 53 bus near my residence in Prabhadevi and reached "L.T.T" Kurla station at approx 0630 hrs.India's most luxurious train the "MAHARAJAH EXPRESS" was parked on platform No 1 and posed for a photo in front of this most expensive tourist train.Made my way to platform No 2 and boarded  Compartment B3 and onto seat 6  of the "Guwahati Express", the train leaving the station punctually at 0805 hrs.My co-passengers were young men , a few from the armed forces and hence the grueling train journey was a mixture of conversation and reading the Mike.Tyson biography  "Undisputed Truth" , a real no-holds tell-all tale from one of the World's greatest and most controversial heavyweight boxer.The train was delayed by 4 hours and thanks to Mike .Tyson biography , a long and tedious train journey was tolerable.
Monday(10-3-2014) NEWS THAT DEVASTED MY LIFE :- Was expected to reach "N.J.P.T" station at the unearthly hour of 0110 hrs , the 4 hour delay adding to the confusion.Couldn't sleep the entire night as my anxiety of overshooting the station was playing on my mind.Consulted my fellow travellers and one family advised me to get down at "Alipurduar station" and catch a bus to Pheuntsholing.Our train finally reached N.J.P.T station at 0400 hrs and i extended my ticket paying a extra Rs 450.At approx  0630 hrs as  we were approaching the Alipurduar  station i got the "HEART ATTACK NEWS" from my house-keeper Sabina.Dias that my 22 year old Alexandrine parakeet "Mittoo" was lying dead in his cage.Thanks to my "Speculation profession" i am accustomed to reacting to losses, profits and deaths !"Mittoo" has his own "Fan Following" under the pseudonym "Mittoo alias mittoo the poppat" and his untimely death was a body blow , akin to losing a 22 year old son.I gave instructions to Sabina to store his dead body in the refrigerator in order to get him stuffed by a taxidermist,memories of a once lively non-human companion. I have owned and lost many pets over my life-span but "Mittoo " was special because of his longevity and unbelievable talent for mimicry. "Its better to have loved and lost than never to have loved at all"."Mittoo" a big thanks for the 22 long years of companionship.I intended completing my entire tour as planned in memory of "Mittoo".

"Gateway to Bhutan" from India. Entry gate into Pheuntsholing  in Bhutan from Jaigaon  in India.

On alighting the train at Alipurduar  i caught a taxi , paying a mind-boggling Rs 1300 for the journey to Pheuntsholing as i had to hire the entire car. It was a beautiful journey through Doar region of forests, passing through the "Buxar Tiger Reserve" which has the highest tiger density in West Bengal .

The "Doar Tea Fields" en-route to Pheuntsholing.

First time in my life i had seen tea plantations on level fields akin to rice plantations in South India with tea-pluckers at their early morning job of "Tea-plucking". There were a few sign boards in the jungle pathways along the main road labeled "Elephant corridor" , the normal routes of wild jungle elephants  that also occasionally destroy crops or antagonize surrounding villagers.En-route we came across some park-rangers trying to board two domesticated elephants onto a truck.I told the driver to stop the car and was as usual busy producing my "VIDEO-MOVIE DOCUMENTARY".One of the elephants, a large male tusker was refusing to enter the truck and trumpeted  his anger.Unwittingly the game warden thought i was a nuisance and distraction through my video-filming and he showed his authority little realizing that i too could have been a "Game Warden" with my experience of animals and zoo visits.

 A Bull tusker being guided into a lorry.

The Warden charged at me wanting to seize my camera and i had to beg him with folded hands to let me go, the actor in me  vying for a Sharukh.Khan role.My unique facial appearance and style must have antagonized the game warden as elephants can react dangerously to strangers.Luckily the wardens temper cooled down and he let us drive away, myself having been dealt a double blow, first the death of "Mittoo" and later almost getting imprisoned and my  camera destroyed   by the wild-life authorities.In hindsight the Rs 1300 private taxi fare was worth the money as it introduced me to the Doars region and the "Buxa tiger reserve" besides helping  me reach Pheuntsholing early compared to the normal traditional route.At approx 0930 hrs i reached Pheuntsholing and quickly made my way to the'Bhutan Immigration Office".I was feeling hot in my sweater with Mumbai seeming colder ! Bhutan time is half an hour ahead of Indian time, hence adjustment of watches.The Immigration office for tourists was on the first floor and after filling a form and attaching a "Passport photo" to the form  sat on a chair  for a computer photo.After approx a half an hours wait  i was issued a "Tourist Permit" allowing me a stay in the country from Monday(10-3-2013) to Friday(14-3-2013) with permission to tour only Thimphu and Paro..The Bhutanese currency is the "Bhutanese Ngultrum" and is on par with the Indian rupee.The "Indian rupee" is also accepted as equivalent currency in Bhutan but mostly only Rs 100 note denominations. Dzongkha is the local Bhutanese language but almost every Bhutanese speaks or understands Hindi language while English is the medium of education in schools. At approx 1030 hrs  boarded a mini-bus for Thimphu , a long journey of 6 to 7 hours  .Thimphu is situated at an altitude varying from  2,248 meters( 7,375 feet) to  2648 meters(8688 feet) in the constricted  Wang Chu river(Thimphu Chu )  valley . "Chu" means river in Bhutanese language.As we gained elevation through the mountainous roads i could literally feel the change in temperature from hot Jaigaon(India)/Pheuntsholing(Bhutan) to the cold clear mountain breeze .My co-passenger was a Indian businessman and he did provide insights into this beautiful isolated Country.On the way i had to show my "Tourist Permit" at two checkpoints.We stopped for lunch at a restaurant where i ordered "Pork/rice curry" with a beer , the pork being as tough as raw hide, dried preserved meat. Came across a "Farmers Market" at a bus-stop type stall where local farmers displayed their wares to locals and tourists.Smoking and Tobacco items are strictly banned in Bhutan but i observed  that "Beetle Leaf(Paan)" and "Beetle nuts(Supari)" was very popular amongst locals, the same being sold at the "Farmers market" along with vegetables.We finally reached Thimphu bus station at approx 1630 hrs.I hired a taxi  being unashamedly  honest of wanting to be guided to the cheapest accommodation in the city.On all my "Solo  Tours" my policy is to  live in the cheapest possible lodging while sightseeing on a billionaire's tour budget !

At the "Clock-Tower" on Norzim Lam road in Thimphu.

.On a payment of Rs 80 the driver took me to "Hotel Ghasel food & Lodge" situated on  31/A Norzin Lam,  the heart of down-town Thimphu.I spoke to the hotel manager and was allotted "Room No 109" on the first floor . A  tiny attached/bathe room  with T.v at a rental of Rs 400/day(Off-Season rates).It was freezing cold in Thimphu and after a hot geyser shower made my way into the street.Bhutan was the 46th Country on my collection of World tours and hence although alone ,my "Internet Study" and travel experience proved useful  and  was all at home in a strange and new city.Walked down Norzin Lam street  towards the "Clock Tower" , the city centre and couldn't believe that just six hours ago i was in India.The sparsely populated clean  city and the Bhutanese with their unique traditional attire gave the city a unique look .Can you believe being in a Capital city of a country  having no traffic signals for road traffic ?The 2012  census of Bhutan accounted for a total population of only 6,50,000 in the entire kingdom stretching over a area of approx 38,394 Sq Km.There was a single traffic  signal post on main Norzin Lam road with a traffic policeman directing one-way traffic in the peak evening hours. Most cars and taxi's on the road were Indian make as also every other consumable commodity.Made my way into "Technet Cyber cafe" and  published the news of "Mittoo's" demise on the Internet.Internet charges were expensive compared to India at Rs 50/hour.Having a sweet tooth  tasted a pastry and it was delicious, my dinner for the night.Came back to my tiny accommodation and browsed through the T.v, the "Malaysian Flight 370 Plane Disappearance" being the prime news.Bhutan television entertainment was totally dominated by Indian and Western soaps, sports and news with just two or three channels focusing on local entertainment.Except for the tiny t.v and tiny room, i felt i was watching Mumbai T.v at home !Sleep eluded me the entire night, the biting cold adding to my insomnia, a common ailment during my tours as acclimatization takes a few days or a day.

"BUDDHA DORDENMA" statue in Thimphu. One of the World's largest Buddha statues.

"Memorial Chorten" in Thimphu city.

Tuesday(11-3-2014) :- A sleepless night and awaiting daybreak to begin my exploration of Thimphu. After the normal toilet routines and a warm bathe put on my formal attire and made my way to the hotel restaurant.The receptionist Mrs Taqshi.Dheden was helpful and gave me a check-list as well as a bit of guidance  of the normal tour sites of Thimphu."Hotel Ghasel" was a pure vegetarian restaurant which didn't even serve eggs and hence breakfast was a normal toast/butter with tea.After breakfast  began a earnest exploration of the tourist sites beginning with  the "Memorial Chorten".It was walking distance from the hotel, although a long walk in the chill cold morning.At approx 0745 hrs reached the memorial and met a Indian tourist, a travel organizer from Calcutta  who gave me some helpful tips on sightseeing in Thimphu.There were early morning devotees at the temple, chanting prayers holding the Buddhist  rosary and spinning the "Tibetan Prayer Wheels" of the temple. After a brief glimpse of the"Memorial Chorten"  made my way to the main road and engaged a taxi for a tour of the distant tourist sites around  Thimphu.After a bit of bargaining the taxi driver agreed to show me a few sites at a rental of Rs 860.The " Thimphu Chu(Wang Chu) river" meanders its way across Thimphu and it was a long drive across a winding mountain towards "Buddha Dordenma" statue.On the way we passed by "Pelkhil School", a scenic educational institution on the banks of the Thimphu Chu river.Finally at approx 0815 hrs reached "Buddha Dordenma" situated on a mountain top with a beautiful view of Thimphu city.I was one of the earliest tourists and later came across a lonely Canadian tourist with her local Bhutanese guide , later more tourists filling the place with their local guides.All foreigners barring Indians have to deposit a daily tourist fee of 250 U.S $'s/day with a local Bhutanese tourist company in order to get a "Tourist Visa" to the Country making Bhutan the costliest Country for budget backpacker economy tourists.After a brief tour of the site walked towards Kuenselphodrang nature park just a few meters away from the Buddha statue.Bhutan is a Bird-watcher and Butterfly tourist destination and the location and isolation of this forested  park in Thimphu city was evidence of a nature paradise.The opening hours for the park was 0900hrs - 1800 hrs and hence i was too early for a exploration walk inside this beautiful forested location.Our next drive was to the "Changangkha Lhakhang Monastery" , arriving at approx 0930 hrs.

 "Changangkha Lhakhang Monastery"

Its a fortress temple and monastic school perched on a cliff  above Thimphu.There were tourists as well as pilgrims inside the Monastery with a beautiful view of Thimphu from the top of the temple. I removed my shoes and entered the temple where a Tibetan Buddhist ritual  was in progress, a few Caucasian tourists seated on the temple floor along with the monks.After visiting the prayer chamber  had a talk with the local care-taker of the Monastery.The next agenda was the highest priority on my tourist visit list, "The  Takin Preserve Zoo". It was a long drive to the "Motithang Takin Preserve" located in the Motithang district of Thimphu.Entry to the zoo was free and there were a few American tourists along with their local Bhutanese guide. The Takin is the National animal of Bhutan since the 15th century.A Tibetan saint by the name of  Lama Drukpa.Kunley(The divine madman) is credited for having  created the Takin with its unique features,the head of a goat and the body of a cow.Got to view and pat this animal as a single specimen was next to the wired enclosure.Its a harmless and docile animal with a lazy and slow  gait.

The Takin.

These animals are found in the forests of Bhutan and are unharmed, held sacred in Bhutanese culture due to religious sentiments.This was the last taxi tour of the allotted taxi fare and i was dropped near the main city centre library.The "National library and archives of Bhutan" has the distinction of owning the World's largest published book certified by the "Guinness book of World Records". This book has 114 pages weighing over 150 pounds.It opens 5 * 7 feet !The guide of the library Mr Phurva gave me a personal tour as i was the only visitor at approx 1045 hrs in the morning.He was dressed in the traditional  men's "Gho" of Bhutan and very polite and informative. One glaring aspect that i observed was the Americanized English accent spoken by the elite educated Bhutanese as television programmes are a daily dosage of Indian and American soaps, movies and news.Strolled around the small well maintained library, most of the other books being religious scriptures.Made my way out of the library and was surprised to see a man selling  "Human penis" shaped carvings along with other handicrafts to tourists  outside the library premises.In any other country this would have been a cause for "Pornography ban" but in Bhutan it has a historical religious significance.                                                                              

"Penis Shaped Handicrafts" along with Face Masks

Lama Drukpa.Kunley(The divine madman) is the reason for the human penis being a source of  talisman in Bhutan used to  to drive away evil spirits."Penis Paintings" adorn some house walls as a sign of  good luck .Lama Drukpa.Kunley  is also known by the title "The saint of 5000 women" as women would seek his blessing in the form of sex. This is also one of the reasons for Bhutan's unique and isolated status on the World Geographical map.In which other  country are Penis's or Vagina's  painted outside houses akin to art ?The Penis holds a very strong religious and cultural significance in Bhutanese society, totally unpolluted by pornographic hallucinations of the "Sex Industry".Purchased a "Thunder Dragon" curio  from this handicraft shop, just photographing the various shaped "Penises" for my photographic bank of a "Been here seen that" World collection.I was thinking of purchasing a "Penis Curio" but realized that in India  my house would be "Taboo" if the same was exhibited in my "World art collection", mistaken for "Dildo's".

Normal residential buildings in Thimphu.

The streets in Thimphu were clean akin to First World Country's with no skyscrapers, most buildings being three or four storeys and uniform in architectural design.Visited the Post office, a large one storeyed building in prime Norzin Lam street.The Bhutan Central bank and the Central Post office  were situated on the ground floor of this  building.All public buildings and places including the Bhutan Central post office  have  a large portrait of the King of Bhutan.  Purchased three Bhutanese stamps, my usual hobby as a tourist  besides purchasing cheap  art and curio collection which has appreciated over the years and decades.Next visited a chic arts shop "Lungta arts craft and jewelries".Saw a beautiful collection of crafted enameled  small  sea-shells costing between  Rs 15,000 to Rs 30,000 imported from Nepal. Purchased a"Yak bone ring" as a good luck charm and later made my way for lunch at the "Sunlight Restaurant & Bar", a local restaurant.Tuesday was a "Dry Day" in Bhutan with  no liquor served in public places and hence had to be content with a tame pork noodles lunch.Finished my lunch by 1230 hrs and strolled down the "Craft Bazaar" on Norzin Lam road, a row of small shops selling curio's , handicrafts and clothes.

Classy  and Billionaire  rental "TAJ TASHI" hotel in Thimphu.

                                                                                                                                                 Next visited the "Taj Tashi", the majestic 5-star hotel of Thimphu. Inquired the cheapest room rates and was horrified to note that the cheapest room was available at only 550 U.S $/Day( approx Rs 34,000/day), the hotel being just walking distance from my Rs 400/day hotel ! Well the billionaire class and the economy class tourist can always rub shoulders in any city, least of all in the "Thunder Dragon"  isolated unique city of Thimphu.From the "Taj Tashi"  walked to the " Royal Textile Academy Museum" situated within walking distance on Norzim Lam road.

"Craft Bazaar" shops.

The "Royal Textile Academy building" was of modern 21st century construction having been inaugurated on 5th June 2013 by the Queen Mother Sangay.Choden.Wangchuk. There was a nominal entrance fee for the museum. I observed that the "Entry Fee" to most museums in Thimphu was cheap compared to International tourist standards and the reasons could be the compulsory 250 U.S $/day tourist fee barring Indian tourists.Photography was prohibited and the museum textile exhibits were unique and beautifully presented.The indigenous Bhutanese textile industry was displayed with captions and mannequin models.The National dress of Bhutan is what makes the Country unique akin to the Scottish Kilts worn in Scotland. A Television displayed the method of wearing the traditional men's "Gho" a knee length dress akin to the Japanese Kimono which is tied to the waist by  a traditional belt known as Kera. The  traditional women's  dress is the "Kira", a long dress upto the ankle with a outer jacket known as a tego and the inner layer known as wonju.The Royal family's wedding ceremonial dress was also on display.This was the only building in which i used a "LIFT", the modern 21st century building in Bhutan.Walked towards the "Bhutan Olympic Committee " stadium complex  and was surprised at the sports facilities and popularity of soccer, tennis and basketball as also the total absence of Cricket.In my entire sightseeing of the city i never came across kids playing cricket nor any cricket pitch.The popular sports  television programmes in Bhutan screened World cricket matches and Indian culture is all over Bhutanese telivision. It.It would take a psychologist to answer the reason for Sachin.Tendulkar being a total unknown in Bhutanese public advertisements  akin to we Indians being consumers of American culture but still strangers to American Football and Base-ball stars and the game!Archery is the National passion and sport of Bhutan.There were large tennis courts and basketball courts within  the main stadium complex.The main ground  was a olympic style  football pitch with astro-turf.I walked onto the deserted football pitch and for the first time in my life felt the feel and softness of astro-turf. Carrom is a very popular  pastime among the locals,played outside shops.At approx 1430 hrs i returned back to my hotel, all within short walking distance on the famous Norzin Lam Street. Hotel Ghasel seemed to be doing  good business as the restaurant was crowded with customers. Purchased a local "Druk 1100" beer and celebrated my 54th birthday alone in my tiny room  above the restaurant watching television.After the age of 50 i hate celebrating birthdays as they remind me of my mortality on Planet Earth, besides, Mittoo's sudden untimely  demise altered my mind-set on life and living. Today is to be alive and lived  as tomorrow you might be dead !After a brief rest in my hotel room at approx 1600 hrs  i headed out into the street.

Thimphu Olympic Football stadium.

Headed towards Hongkong Market, a parallel street  above  Norzin Lam street.This is a cheaper locality unlike the plush Norzin Lam locality and sells all types of consumable goods.Visited the vegetable markets and on inquiry realized that all the vegetables were imported from India. All the meat shops were closed for the  month  of March due to a Buddhist religious belief and hence the locals ate dried meat and fish.Bhutanese consume all types of non-vegetarian food, pork being the favourite. There were a lot of stray dogs on the streets of Thimphu, well fed and tame strays which tend to bark at night.. Seems Bhutanese are fond of these stray dogs and tolerate their non-earthly hours barking.The cold climate gives most of these strays a good thick glossy coat unlike the mangy strays normally seen in hot climate city's. Walkled towards "Bhutan-Thailand Friendship Park", a small park built in 2009 in the heart of downtown Thimphu.Later in the evening made my way  towards the . the local bus-stand as "Taxi Travel" made me feel elitist,very artificial, not my usual back-packers agenda and method of exploring a new city or country.The buses were crowded with local school children, all dressed in the national dress.Intended seeing the King's residence   and hence inquired with a local bus passenger in the bus queue.He misguided me saying that "Dechencholing Palace", the  Royal residence was just half an hour by bus.Luckily i got down from the bus before it started, having re-confirmed the address with another local traveller, a young lady who told me that it was the last stop, about 7 Kms  from the city centre.I am a gambler by profession  but definitely weigh my odds.

The single and only "TRAFFIC POLICEMAN" in Thimphu on  Norzin Lam Road.

                    Travelling in a unknown city by local bus at dusk was definitely not worth the gamble, although Bhutan is considered one of the safest Country's on Planet Earth. .From the bus stand made my way to "Mona Internet Cafe"  a normal internet parlour close to my hotel.Inside this parlour was a video-game parlour called "Aadda" and was surprised to find young kids busy playing "Video Games", the most popular game being "English Soccer".From here walked to the local cyber cafe and whiled away my time, the cost being Rs 50/hour.Dinner was at approx 1830 hrs at a plush restaurant "New Ama's"  on Norzin Lam street.Got to read  the English version of "Kuensel", the National newspaper of Bhutan which  is  also published in Dzongkha and  Nepali.The restaurant food was average, although classy.After dinner came back to my hotel and spent the night watching T.v, a total sleepless night in shivering cold.My sightseeing tour of Thimpu had come to a end and tomorrow would be departure to Paro. Bhutan has a philosophy of "GROSS NATIONAL HAPPINESS" to promote social and economic development in the Kingdom.Collective happiness of the people is important irrespective of personal economic wealth.This is what makes Bhutan unique  and a prosperous country where economic prosperity is also linked to holistic mind thinking.

"Rinpung Dzhong" in Paro.

Thimphu taxi drivers dressed in their traditional Gho.

Wednesday(12-3-2014) :- Awaiting daylight after a sleepless night i quickly finished my normal toilet routines and packed for departure to Paro.At 0730 hrs made my way to the hotel restaurant and had a breakfast consisting of bread and jam. Hotel Ghasal was pure vegetarian with eggs also being taboo but liquor freely available.After completing the room payments i collected my luggage and headed onto my next adventure, Paro city.It was a lonely walk towards the taxi stand , the street later being crowded with school children.There was a huge hoarding across the main road  advertising a seminar on educational universities in India. Language is not a problem in Bhutan as almost everyone understands and speaks Hindi and hence walked towards the taxi/bus  terminus by asking for directions.

Highway to Paro blocked by "LANDSLIDE".

Unique "PARO AIRPORT",Bhutan's only airport.

On reaching the taxi stand was quickly accosted by a taxi driver Mr Pema  and allotted his "Maruti R Wagon" , awaiting  passengers for a shared taxi drive to Paro.It was a total tourist "Off-Season" month  and hence getting passengers was a problem , besides, time was precious to my solo tour itinerary. I agreed for hiring the entire taxi  at  Rs 400 and so we finally left Thimphu at approx 0900 hrs.On the way he did manage collecting a few passengers and it was a long drive through a clear well paved road.Did stop on the way for a photo shoot of scenic houses and finally reached the bridge over the confluence of the river Wangchu and Paro Chu .It was the main bifurcation highway for Thimphu and Paro,Paro being just 24 Kms away with  the straight main highway leading to Pheuntsholing.Our taxi stopped at this scenic spot which also had small shops selling eatables and vegetables, a normal stop for taxi's.Spotted a group of Macaque monkeys playing on the rock cliffs above the highway road, the monkeys seemed well fed.
After a brief stop we began our onward journey and came across a traffic jam due to a landslide on the highway. After a brief traffic jam we began our onward journey  and passed alongside Paro airport, the only airport in Bhutan.We finally reached Paro town at approx 1045 hrs and taxi driver Mr Pema guided me to cheap lodging also explaining me the main tourist locations of this small town of Bhutan.The taxi drivers in Bhutan are excellent guides, very helpful although the charges steep.

Main road of Paro Town.

On alighting from the taxi i walked across the road onto a cluster of small buildings and inquired for cheap lodging.  Paro town reminded me of a typical Swiss village, small, clean , sparsely populated and excellent cool weather.I was guided to "Brothers Hotel", a small old building having a electrical/electronics workshop on the ground floor and situated next to the landmark Bhutan telecom transmission tower.A young lady with two young kids greeted me at the reception and allotted me  "Room Nos D-104" on the first floor, myself being the only guest in the entire lodge!Checked into my room and found it very spacious having a television  along with a large gallery with a grand view of the "Paro Chu " river.Only drawback was the lack of running "Hot water", the same provided through a heater element which took a hour for warming and hence decided to postpone bathing for the next day ! But then, at Rs 400/day room charges a miser accommodation  tourist can't expect better amenities.I quickly undressed and changed attire and went to the ground-floor dining room and   requested the hotel  lady manager for lunch.Lunch was dried beef and rice with vegetables, authentic local Bhutanese cooking.Fresh non-vegetarian food was not available in entire Bhutan due to the closure of butcher shops for a month due to religious reasons and hence usage of dry non-vegetarian food.Bhutanese are total catholic in non-vegetarian eating habits which surprised me as they are basically Buddhists.The beef was as tough as leather and it was a experience of a life-time tasting dried beef meat.After lunch at approx 1230 hrs  began my walk  to "Rinpung Zhong", a short walking distance from "Brothers Hotel".On the way came across a veterinary  dispensary, the "Dzongkhag Vety Hospital" where a St Bernard owned by monks was a patient.                                                                                                    

"Dzongkhag Vety Hospital" in Paro.

It was a ferocious dog unlike normal St Bernards and the monk had to restrict the dog from barking at me, the weirdo lone unaccompanied  tourist.Now you know my reasons for comparing Paro to a Swiss village, lots of similarities including the exotic  pets.Bhutanese are fond of dogs and akin to Thimphu there were numerous harmless stray dogs on the road.From the veterinary hospital  walked across the cantilever wooden  bridge built over the Paro Chu river and entered the courtyard of Rinpung Dzong. Spotted strange black birds that resembled crows but had yellow feet and beaks.Later in Mumbai thanks to "F.B(Facebook)" and Ex  "B.N.H.S(Bombay Natural History Society)"employee  Mr Nikhil.Bhopale  now a free-lancing bird tour entrepreneur   that i got to identify this bird as the "Red Billed Chough".Next was a climb up a flight of rock stairs to the entrance of Rinpung Dzong guarded by two  policemen.They inspected my entry permit and inquired if i had a guide, the normal tourist procedure in Bhutan.After police clearance i entered the majestic Dzong and studied the large Buddhist religious paintings on the interior walls.The Dzong was made of stones and Rinpung means  "Heaps of jewels".Most of the treasures of the Rinpong Dzong was destroyed in a fire in 1907 and the present frescoes are all modern paintings.A tourist couple were being explained the intricacies of the various paintings and i unashamedly eavesdropped on the lecture, happy to understand a few of the frescoes.From the narrow entrance one enters the main courtyard of the Dzong.There are a total of 14 shrines and chapels inside the Rinpung Zong, all banned for tourists.The Dzong also houses the Government administrative offices of Paro Dzongkhag. There were a few monks inside the main courtyard and one of them Mr Tenjo.Dorji  spoke to me , explaining the basic importance of Paro.

Inside the main courtyard of Rinpung Dzong

The view of Paro from the elevated height of the Dzong was magnificent and got a view of the distant Himalayan snow-capped mountains.Came across a pregnant tabby cat and did a selfie-photo with the cat, very tame and docile.Spotted young child monks, one of them offering me his traditional sword. They were playing marbles and after decades i saw kids playing the simple children street-side pass-time of marbles, almost extinct in my home city of Mumbai .The Internet and computer era  has robbed most 21st century children the joys of simple childhood games, the present trend being "Computer illusion games".Thats life, change is permanent but in some places change is also accommodating tradition.In 1993 the film "LITTLE BUDDHA" was partly filmed at the Rinpung Dzong.This is what makes Bhutan unique and isolated, the land of the "Thunderdragon".After admiring the scenic beauty of Paro landscape from the Dzong i made my way to the exit, one of the few tourists in the Dzong.

A common Bhutanese village  house on the hill to Ta Dzong.

My next tour itinerary was the "National  Museum of Bhutan " situated in a former watchtower  called Ta Dzong on a hill above Rinpung Dzong.Hill and mountainous regions are very deceptive for judging distances by the human eye.On exiting Rinpung Dzong  the museum seemed just a short uphill trek across rugged terrain.I decided to trek to the top of the hill , a almost barren hill with just a few houses  on the way.The trek was treacherous, not as simple as i estimated and the narrow pathway  seemed un-used for ages, covered with thorns and shrubs. A slip of foot meant serious physical damage.

Paro city.Typical city buildings of Bhutan.

A small isolated house was perched midway from the hill and the owner of the house guided me towards a pathway that criss-crossed his house.I followed his directions and got myself into more trekking trouble finally deciding to quit being a penny wise and pound foolish mule.Decided to turn back and go back to the main road and walk down the road or hail a taxi. On returning i was aghast at the sight of a huge human penis painting on the wall of the  house of the man who guided me a few minutes ago . I had seen "Penis Curio's" in Thimphu but never ever a magnified penis on a wall akin to a Pablo. Picasso or M.F  Hussein figurine  paintings. The fool hardy trek was worth just for this time-less authentic photograph of unique Bhutan where the male penis is a symbol of good luck.We normally see the female sex organs being glorified in literature and art.In fact i saw this house-holds family, a young couple with a young child, a simple Bhutanese family.Dazed and relieved for trekking back to the main road in a single body i next inquired for a taxi.Taxi's were unavailable as the few tourists always have escorted guided tours.Hence decided to walk all the way to the top again underestimating hill distances.The walk seemed endless, the cold weather saving me from dehydration and fatigue.Luckily a engaged taxi came my way and the occupants agreed to give me a lift back to Rinpung Dzong entrance gate.After the occupants alighted the taxi i requested the driver to take me to the museum to which he agreed.Finally after a abandoned, foolhardy and adventurous trek i did reach Ta Dzong with the help of a taxi.Photography was not allowed inside the "National museum of Bhutan".The museum is worth the visit as  a tourist gets to understand the geography and cultural  history of Bhutan. It was at this museum that i was surprised to read that the 2012 population census of Bhutan  was only 6,50,000 people ! Compare this population to just a single locality of Mumbai, Kolkotta or Delhi .Bhutan is also one of the rare Asian country's never ever to have been colonized by a foreign power. Viewed the "Mask Section" where a brief explanation was given as to the meaning and significance of various "Animal & Bird Masks" in Bhutanese culture.There is also a Natural history section that houses stuffed animals and birds of Bhutan.After visiting the museum i made my way back  by taxi collecting the previous occupants  and hence sharing the taxi fare back to Paro at a cost of Rs 200.Alighted the taxi in the main city and loitered around, the town reminding me of Engelberg in Switzerland, absolutely desolate with a lack of human population and clean and tidy.Besides food i love tasting the local indigenous liquor of the Country or city i visit and hence decided to search for the local Bhutanese brew "ARA". Ara is made from maize, wheat , millet or rice and fermented, in private houses or farms.Ara is also produced for religious purposes , mostly in eastern Bhutan..Inquired at a local wine shop and was directed towards a small grocery shop where a lady gave me the brew in a bottle, costing only Rs 50.Cheaper than Mumbai hooch! Made my way back to my hotel room and after depositing the bottle had a talk with a local businessman in "Brothers electronics repairing & sale shop",a flourishing business , the ancillary unit of "Brothers Hotel".Interesting conversation and he also told me that there was a "Archery Stadium" nearby where the sport was played daily.At approx 1700 hrs i  headed towards the archery ground, all within walking distance from "Brothers Hotel". Paro is a small one-horse town and a person can never get lost within this small city.The "Archery Ground" was  on the same route as Rinpung Dzong.On entering the  large archery ground thinking that it was empty i walked across the end of the ground.As i was walking i suddenly heard a group of men shouting at me from the opposite end of the ground.Ignoring the shouts i casually walked to the other-side of the ground only to later realize that i had narrowly escaped becoming a arrow target by the group of men playing archery from the other end of the ground.Archery is the national pass-time and sport in Bhutan akin to Cricket in India.

"Archery Tournament" in Paro.(145 meters target)

                                                                                                                                                     

These group of men were shooting with American imported hunting bows costing between Rs 60,000 to Rs 1,00,000 with  the target  range being 145 meters.Akin to bowling a over in cricket  they change sides after shooting a certain specified amount of arrows from one end of the 145 meters archery pitch.The target is similar to a wicket in cricket, a wooden board with a "Bulls Eye" target.Having personally witnessed this sport and having tried air-gun target shooting myself should say that shooting a arrow from 145 meters is superhuman archery.These men gambled on money through "Points system " akin to points in rifle shooting.Spent the evening conversing and photographing  these professional archers who also played in the night under flood-lights akin to night cricket  matches.They told me that many  people had died accidentally in the sport of  145 meters archery in Bhutan , definitely a modern day gladiator sport.In America these bows are utilized for hunting animals and not for target practice .This type of archery is not in the Olympics format, a pure Bhutanese version of the sport akin to the modern invention of "T-20 Cricket".I promised them that i would definitely visit them the next day to witness "Floodlights Archery shooting". As dusk settled i made my way back to the hotel, luck and a divine force saving me from a brutal accidental bow and arrow death.A charmed life ! Dinner was "Bhutanese pork/rice" at "Brothers hotel", the same dried recipe only a little softer than the leather tough beef at lunch.It was chilling cold in my spacious room and my normal night sleeping clothing since Thimphu  consisted of two sweater, a long john and track pant covered with double blankets while in bed.This is one reason that emigrating from "Garm(Warm)" Mumbai to other Country's or city's  never ever occurred in my mind as i can't withstand extreme cold for long duration's irrespective of monetary incentives or personal living conditions.

Solo trek to Taktsang Monastery(Tigers Nest) at an altitude of 3120 meters(10,240 ft). A trek of 900 meters(3000 feet) above the  Paro valley.

Thursday(13-3-2014) :- Woke up at approx 0330 hrs, the first time that i actually got some sleep after arriving in Bhutan.Inserted the geyser rod, a crude  repaired heater spare part by "Brothers Electronics & repair sales shop" into a bucket of water .The mechanic told me that  the normal heating time for bubbling hotness was  approx a hour, fantastic indigenous modification from electrical trash..Today i would be trekking all the way to Taktsang monastery, the greatest "SOLO TREK" in my entire trekking career post sea-sailing retirement.My inspiration  to  trek to Taktsang Monastery  was acquired by reading the adventurous blogs of London  mountaineer Mr Mark.Horrell, a avid mountain climber who has written numerous mountaineering books having also climbed Mt Everest among his numerous mountain peak conquests. His style of writing was simple and lucid without much mountaineering technical jargon  and he considered the simple trek to Taktsang Monastery as one of his best mountaineering experiences which  included  climbing the great Mt Everest and other lesser peaks ! This comment from a Mountaineer veteran carried a lot of authority, akin to a prominent  horse trainer tipping a "Derby horse winner".Taktsang Monastery is the symbol of Bhutan, the picture postcard monastery   hanging on a mountain cliff at a altitude of 3120 meters(10,240 ft). After a hot water bath dressed into warm clothing and made my way out of the hotel.Barring a pack of stray dogs there were few humans on the street of Paro at the unearthly hour of 0700 hrs.The dogs did bark at me and must have woken up a few locals.Walked upto the local taxi stand and booked a  private taxi costing Rs 250 to drop me at the base of the Taktsang trek route.It was a long drive of approx 10 Kms through the scenic countryside of Paro where "Rice farming" is the main occupation.Most prominent are the "Tibetan prayer flags" hung on hill-sides and small bridges.The taxi driver did get a few passengers en-route which added to his route earnings since this was a total tourist off-season .He was initially reluctant to cart me at   only Rs 250 for the 10 Km trip ,definitely not profitable, just a recovery of petrol money.

"MULES" are used by pilgrims and tourists.

At approx 0730 hrs  the taxi reached the base of the Taktsang trail, myself being the first and only tourist at this unearthly morning hour.Payed the cab driver and made my way towards the pack of mules tethered at a corner of the densely pine forested area.The charges for a mule ride to almost 3/4 of the trek distance  was Rs 800. A lady was selling walking sticks and i decided to purchase one costing Rs 50  as i didn't want to strain my legs in the beginning of my  marathon solo backpackers tour .Backpacking solo tour  management was my criteria, besides personal physical fitness.On Thursday(13-3-2014) at approx 0745 hrs  i was the first person to enter the trail to the mysterious Taktsang Monastery.The initial  trail was simple as i had to just follow the very prominent "MULE TRACKS", the weather excellent, a cool clear bright day.I was more worried of  encountering the elusive snow leopard or some other wild animal  rather than of losing my way .There were dust-bins  allocated at various points along the route with a message from the King to preserve Bhutan's pristine forests and natural beauty.I walked at a leisure pace, stopping at times to admire the beauty of the forested Himalayas. From being the first person to enter the "Taktsang Monastery Trail" i was now gradually being overtaken by mules and other pilgrims and tourists.

The initial wide trek path to Taktsang monastery.

A mule pack carrying heavy luggage overtook me as also a couple of tourists along with their guides.At approx 0830 hrs i reached the first prominent rest-stop, the "Horse-trail point(Mule)" where there was a drinking trough and tap water for the mules.I quenched my thirst from the tap water, least bothered that i was consuming unfiltered "Mule water" !Besides my walking stick and heavy binoculars i was not carrying a haversack as i normally did on my numerous hill-fort monsoon treks in my home state of Maharashtra.The cool climate was conducive to uphill mountain trekking, besides, trekking was a late life hobby that i adjusted very well  into my outdoors entertainment.This trek brought back memories of the "Mt Sinai Trek" in Egypt  which i had  accomplished  in 2008 on a packaged Holy Land pilgrimage tour with "Mosiac tours " of Mumbai. On that trek camels were used to cart pilgrims while here it was mules, besides, Sinai was barren cold  desert  land while Taktsang was evergreen cold  Himalayan pine forests.After a brief rest at the"Horse Trail Point"  began my upward climb, the same getting steeper.Came across "Tibetan prayer flags" fluttering in the wind throughout the  trek. At approx 0845 hrs came across  a rest-stop where there was a huge Tibetan prayer wheel for pilgrims. A few  Taiwanese pilgrims dressed in yellow clothing arrived at this point on mules.They performed their religious rites on the prayer wheel and we made our way towards the "Taktsang Cafeteria" a short walking distance from the prayer wheel.This cafeteria is run by the Bhutan tourism corporation Ltd with prices slightly lower than 5-star hotel rates. meant purely for the guided tourists.Strange, i was the first to enter the Taktsang trail but saw numerous tourists with guides sipping tea and biscuits with a indescribable view of  the mountains and forest.Got the first glimpse of the precariously perched Taktsang monastery from this cafeteria site, just beautiful.

Tourists at the "Taktsang Cafeteria".

This Cafeteria was at  the half-way mark of the trek to the Monastery which seemed deceptively close when viewed as the crow flies direction.Drank the costliest cup of tea along with two biscuits which cost me Rs 110 ! Observed a Yellow billed magpie stealing biscuits from the tourists, least afraid akin to crows on normal land.At high altitudes the cost of commodities increases due to portage charges as the mule wagon  is definitely not ordinary transport.After relaxing for a few minutes at this plush cafeteria began my onward journey following the mule trail and the Taiwanese pilgrims.Now i was feeling the rarefied atmosphere but was surprised to find many elder Caucasian tourists trekking at a brisk rate with heavy haversacks, most notably a lonely Australian backpacker tourist.

Taiwanese Pilgrims on Mules with their guides

"Taktsang Monastery" view at start of "STAIRCASE CLIMB"

I realized that compared to most Caucasian tourists, i was just about average as a mountain trekker.Many elderly women were much faster than me on the trek, my only consolation being that i was  the first tourist to enter Taktsang trail on Thursday the 13th of March 2014! Another reason for my slow climb was the fact that i didn't want to spend all my energy on a single day as i had a long trail of mountainous sightseeing ahead on my tour agenda.I was timing my energy akin to a marathon runner.After an hours trek at approx 1000 hrs  i finally reached the last stage of the "Mule Stop", end of the mule ride for pilgrims and tourists.It was now a common walk  for all people wanting to enter "Taktsang Monastery".It was a torturous downward walk towards a small   Buddhist temple from where the beautiful Taktsang Monastery  seemed near , just across the mountain over a flight of stone steps cut on the mountain-side.Tibetan prayer flags was fluttering in the breeze and the bright sunshine making the view a copybook for professional photographers. Normally there is mist across the monastery and hence visibility low but Thursday the 13th seemed a lucky day for us, just classic mountain brightness. The staircase trek to the monastery  was the toughest of the entire trek, deceptively easy and close akin to a mirage in a desert.From a distance and photographs a person might be perplexed as to the means of reaching this unbelievable monastery perched on a mountain ledge which is also the reason  of its natural beauty Worldwide.

Pilgrims walking up the last flight of stairs  to Monastery.

A lone temple perched high above Taktsang Monastery

Its simple, the rock cut staircase built along the two connecting mountain walls is the stairway to Taktsang Monastery.The trekker has to first walk down a flight of stairs and later again walk up a flight of stairs to finally reach the entrance of the Monastery.At approx 1045 hrs i reached the Monastery gates where i had to deposit my camera as photography was prohibited inside the Monastery.The Taiwanese pilgrims were a large group and began chanting hymns on arrival at the Monastery gate.I was the rare tourist without a guide and hence had to eavesdrop on explanations by other guides inside this beautiful temple complex.The "Taktsang Monastery complex " was first built in 1692.The Monastery building consists of four main temples and residential accommodation for monks.A lone temple perched on the peak  of the adjacent mountain is the highest temple in the Taktsang Monastery complex.I won't go into the history of this monastery as that would be a subject by itself, one of the holiest Taktsang  caves in which Guru Padmasambhava  also known as Guru Rinpoche in Bhutan  meditated.There are various small religious chambers inside the temple complex.The main building of the  temple complex housing valuable relics was destroyed by a fire on April 19 1998 and later  restored in 2005.Hence most of the paintings  in the monastery are replica's and not originals.

Paro Valley

The view of Paro valley from the side of the  monastery balconies which have glass windows is breathtaking, a once in a life-time experience.In a temple chamber a monk offered tourists and pilgrims holy water. After trekking and visiting this monastery i realize the reason for mountain veteran Mr Mark.Horrell considering this trek as one of the World's best.Relaxed inside the temple complex admiring the Paro valley and the surrounding mountains.Met a Nepal tour operator and exchanged some conversation with him giving me tips on the best time to visit Kanyakumari , the southernmost tip of India.Tried performing a normal tourist ritual inside the temple where a tourist had to walk blind-eyed towards a rock  that supposedly had the fingerprints of Guru Rinpoche and try to be accurate in planting his or her thumb onto the depression.I tried and failed as did other tourists i viewed. Finally at approx 1145 i left the Monastery and began my descent towards Paro base.It was the staircase that was tiring due to its up and down elevations in reverse while descending.This trek could also be dangerous as some of the ledges were very narrow without rail-guards. Stopped at the "Taktsang Cafeteria" intending to have  a meal but the atrocious tourist  prices and buffet menu restricted my appetite and spending.The buffet food was pure European continental with noodles and cost a whooping Rs 485!Besides, a full stomach would be detrimental to trekking.After a brief rest at the cafeteria complex made my descent and came across latecomers trekking to the monastery.Met a group of "I.I.M (Ahmedabad)" Indian graduates on a holiday  trekking up towards Taktsang Monastery.Further down came across a Indian group from Mumbai  and had a brief conversation.They were also amazed at the fitness of some of the Caucasian tourists telling me of a a man of 75 years accomplishing the trek while i personally saw a  slim fit woman definitely above 60 years  trekking faster   than me !Met a few tourists from Switzerland descending along with me and exchanged conversation.They also commented that Paro did resemble Switzerland in topography and climate.

"Paro Base" :- Beginning and End of Taktsang Trek.

Finally at approx 1400 hrs i reached Paro base where the tourist buses and mules were parked.Local souvenirs were on display for tourists and to my horror i realized that there were no taxi's on hire, all tourists having their own guided bus Requested a local tour conductor to accommodate me on his bus to which he obliged and this was definitely my luckiest day of the tour.At approx 1445 hrs our tourist bus  of Caucasian tourists left for Paro city.I was hungry having only eaten  the costliest biscuits and tea for breakfast at "Taktsang Cafe" and hence craving for a good Bhutanese meal.On reaching Paro city  it was difficult to find a restaurant and hence i walked into a common take-away restaurant and had noodles and a beer for a late lunch.Strolled around the empty streets and visited a grocery shop purchasing a chocolate and later  a vegetable shop for bananas.Saw a few young men playing carrom outside a shop, the popular leisure pass-time in Bhutan.Returned to my hotel and had some rest.Later in the evening observed a group of young boys playing basketball on a  court  next to "Brothers Hotel".These young boys imitated the mannerisms and playing methods of N.B.A stars along with sports-wear . Strangely, even in Paro i didn't come across any cricket ground nor anyone playing the game of "Gully Cricket" on streets , the strangest and most striking observation of my tour of Thimphu and Paro.A Psychologist would be able to answer the reasons for Bhutan being the total opposite of India in sporting interests although totally dependent on India for commodities ,entertainment and educational services.From the basketball court i made my way to the main city and visited a few handicraft and curio shops.Later made my way to "Fusion Karaoke bar and Resto" and was surprised to be the only customer in the night-club. A single girl was in attendance to customers  and i tried karaoke on  "Hotel California" , the charges being Rs 30 per Karaoke.From the Karaoke bar walked towards the "Archery Ground".

Mr Sonam.P.Wangchuk on the "Archery Ground"  
playing under floodlights.

                                                                                                                                            The men were busy gambling under floodlights and i was amazed at their accuracy from 145 meters while they themselves were amazed at my narrow escape the previous day, their topic of gossip and discussion. A gentleman named Mr Sonam.P.Wangchuk picked up a conversation with me, fluent in English and Hindi as he had a public school background and  worked for "Druk Airlines" , Bhutans National Carrier. He had lived in Mumbai for some time during a airlines posting to the city. He explained me the basic culture of Bhutan and offered me a local whisky drink at the archery club bar.Watched them play till about 2000 hrs and later made my way back to the hotel.This being my last day in Paro and Bhutan requested Mr Wangchuk for guidance to a good restaurant in Paro. He gave me directions to a Indian owned  Hotel Sonam Touffel situated in the heart of the town.This distance was too far from the archery ground .Walked back to my hotel and had dinner at a plush hotel next to mine  consisting of pork/rice.

LIFE OF A SOLO BACKPACKER :- Different hotels different places.Classic "FISH THALI DINNER" at  "Delhi Hotel & Restaurant " in Siliguri.

Bhutanese family run hotel.

Friday(14-3-2014) :- Had a good nights sleep waking up at approx 0400 hrs. Inserted the "Hot water heater element" into a bucket of water and spent my time browsing T.V. After a hot bathe packed my luggage and signed off from the hotel at approx 0730 hrs. Walked across the lonely road to the local taxi stand.Hailed a local taxi and told him to take me to the "Shared Taxi Stand" for Pheuntsholing.He drove me a short distance  and to my horror i realized that "Shared Taxi's" were totally unavailable in Paro due to lack of tourist while  locals preferred  the common daily bus.The taxi driver took me to the local bus stand situated opposite " Sonam Tophel" hotel charging me Rs 60.There were only two daily mini-bus services from Paro to Pheuntsholing and both were full for Friday(14-3-2014) , the bus scheduled to leave at 0900 hrs.Bus tickets have to be booked at least one day in advance in Paro. Luckily the bus conductor gave me a cancelled ticket  costing Rs 220 which saved me a day of unnecessary stay in Paro, a very small city with not much sightseeing barring its beautiful Swiss weather and the Taktsang Monastery trek.Had tea at "Sonam Tophel" hotel, a cosy hotel with Indian tourists.The mini-bus bus was punctual in its departure at  0900 hrs.The bus was full with locals and on the way we encountered a traffic jam due to a landslide.As the bus made its way towards Pheuntsholing the conductor gradually collected passengers on the way and hence it was packed, akin to traveling on a Mumbai local train.I was thankful for just getting a ticket and accommodation on the bus as the minimum private taxi fare would be approx Rs 3000! We passed  the scenic Paro airport, a beautiful view from an elevation as we were driving down the mountain.At 1200 hrs we stopped for lunch at a typical local family run Bhutanese hotel. The hotel owner had three beautiful white dogs that resembled the Corgi breed, playful and acrobatic.Excellent lunch with a little dosage of  the local "Ara" brew  which was in my carry-bag.Suddenly while munching my lunch realized i was biting into  something  non-chewable and to my horror realized it was a chip of my broken molar tooth.This tooth had been fixed by my dentist in Mumbai and had again broken at its fixed joint. Wrapped the "Tooth" in a napkin and put it in my bag, same to be fixed again back home in Mumbai. Lucky that i had not swallowed the same along with my food! After lunch our journey began and reached the hydro-electric  power supply town of Tala where a few passengers alighted the bus.  and at approx 1415 hrs  we  stopped at "Suntolakha Farm market" stop.

"Suntolakha Farm Market" stop.

At the farm market a few passengers purchased beetle nut (supari)  and pan, the favourite  intoxicant  of Bhutanese.It was a drive down the mountain  where i had to surrender my permit paper at the local check-post , end of a memorable tour of Thimphu and Paro in Bhutan.At approx 1500 hrs our bus finally arrived at Pheuntsholing , the local weather being warm and hot.Collected my roller bag and walked towards Jaigaon town in India.It was a  long walk from the Pheuntsholing bus-stand to Jaigaon city. On entering Jaigaon it was the experience of being in the World's second largest populated Country, India.Boarded a shared rickshaw that took me to Jaigaon local bus stand charging only Rs 5. Was amazed at seeing a bus arrive with young school children travelling on the roof of the bus, a first  time visual experience in my life.Yes, this was my India, very soon to become the World's most populated Country.On inquiries at the local bus-stand purchased a Rs 100 ticket to Siliguri on a local bus scheduled to depart at 1500 hrs. The bus ultimately left the station at 1645 hrs and it was a rickety ride on absolutely bad roads to Siliguri. At 2115 hrs reached  "Tenzing Norgay Bus Station" in Siliguri and on alighting the bus headed towards the closest lodge.Checked into  room no 13 on the third floor  of "Delhi hotel and restaurant. The rental was Rs 300/day(Off-season rates).                                                                                  

Siliguri in West Bengal. Junction for trains and buses.

 It was hot and  in just 12 hours i had experienced temp range of +5 to 10 * c  in Paro to + 30 * c in Siliguri akin to "Jet Lag".This is the adventure of backpacking, discovering the unknown in a mechanically controlled World.It was a spacious room with television and a fan.For the first time in my tour i used a fan  and  had a normal water bathe from the tap .Bizarre and adventurous.Dinner was the costliest Bengali fish thali with my personal "Bhutanese Ara" drink, the fish thali costing a princely Rs 250.After a sumptuous dinner did get some good sleep at normal warm temps without sweaters or blankets.

Darjeeling's World famous Mountaineering Training Institute.

Saturday(15-3-2014) :- Woke up at 0300 hrs, 4 hours sleep being my maximum sleep limit on tours as well as at home, a partial insomniac.Watched television and later on daybreak checked out of the hotel.This hotel was in prime Siliguri tourist locality, next to the train, bus and taxi stand. Had a breakfast of omelette/ bread and tea  from a food stall near the taxi stand and was allotted a shared jeep  taxi . At approx 0630 hrs boarded the taxi consisting of 12 passengers including the driver.There was no traffic jams as the jeep drove along early in the morning towards the hill station of  Darjeeling.The incline route up the mountain was alongside the Himalayan mountain toy train route, the tracks running parallel to the highway.Brought back youth memories of  one of my favourite Hindi movie "Aradhna" of the 1970's which was shot in Darjeeling, a memorable song from the movie picturised on the toy train .In my youth i  had associated Darjeeling with Hindi movies and Darjeeling tea.

The "Toy Train Station " of Kurseong.

                                                                        At approx 0715 hrs we reached Kurseong station(4864 feet)and could feel the cool weather change with the increase in altitude.Darjeeling district seemed a congested hill-station and a little dirty in 2014  unlike the 1970's song picturisation of "Aradhna" which was my image of this World famous hill-station.City's and Country's change over the decades and so has Darjeeling, definitely a densely populated hill-station.At  0830 hrs we reached Ghum station (7407 Ft), the highest train station in India.From Ghum Station the highway meanders to a lower altitude  and we reached  "Chowk Bazaar" of Darjeeling at approx 0900 hrs. Darjeeling is situated at a altitude of 6812 feet and the weather was cool. The filth and congestion of this main Bazaar , bus-stand  and taxi locality of Darjeeling surprised me , only consolation, the cold hill station weather.Approached a cab driver for cheap accommodation guidance and he escorted me to "Hotel Morning Glory"situated on Loch Nagar road just a short walk downhill from main  Chowk Bazaar.The hotel seemed recently renovated with many rooms, all empty on my arrival indicating the tourist off-season period.The hotel owner Mr Kedar.Mukherjee offered me a tiny room unfit for a "Macaw parrot",just a bed and a tiny attached toilet/bathe.This room had broken my previous record of  smallest room stay on tour  which happened to be in 2005 in "Chungking Mansion" in Hongkong, one of the World's costliest city's. The room charges were a princely Rs 330(Off-season) and since check-in was 12 -12 hrs  i had to deposit my luggage in the hotel store-room and proceed on my city exploration.

Darjeeling Zoo.

Having done my "Internet study" i was aware of the tourist locations and places of interest. My first visit was to the "Darjeeling Zoo".It was a long straight walk from my hotel, tolerable due to the cold climate.This zoo is at Jawahar Parvat(Birch hill ) and was  inaugurated in 1958.It is the highest altitude zoo in India set at an altitude of 7000 ft(2133 meters).It was initially known as the Himalayan zoological park and later renamed "Padmaja Naidu  Himalayan zoological park" by former Prime Minister Smt Indira.Gandhi.At approx 0945 hrs i reached the zoo situated on a hill.After purchasing the entry ticket of Rs 40 which included entrance to the "Himalayan Mountaineering Institute" i  made my way into the zoo.Bizarrely, the first enclosure was the "Parrot Enclosure" haunting me with memories of my late Alexandrine parakeet "Mittoo".There were Alexandrine parakeets and Macaws along with other exotic  parrots and parakeets in a large enclosed aviary.Another Aviary had various types of Pheasants.Saw a beautiful pair of Golden Macaws, absolutely large birds that would find difficulty fitting into my tiny hotel room  in "Hotel Morning Glory" !            

Rare Himalayan Wolf.

The zoo was well maintained and clean, the birds and animals seemed well fed and cared.For the first time in my life got to view some rare Himalayan animal species like the Goral and the Himalayan Wolf.The Himalayan Wolf if not en-caged resembled a mixed breed German shepherd dog.The zoo  viewing area is small built on a hillock with the animal enclosures on the sides of the small hillock.Viewed the elusive snow leopard and Red Panda's.The zoo had  a tiger and a leopard , the prized exhibits being the herbivorous animals of the Himalayas, rarely exhibited in lowland zoo's.Its a comparatively small zoo with large enclosures for the animals and birds, very well maintained.The "Himalayan Mountaineering Institute(HMI)"  entrance is at the extreme end of the zoo entrance.On entering the Institute a visitor is greeted with a inauguration plaque and a mountain model of two mountaineers climbing onto a peak.Photography is not allowed inside the mountaineering museum.,            

Himalayan Mountaineering  Institute.

The museum has a display of all the records and expeditions on various peaks in the Himalaya's.A educational  topographical model of the Himalayan mountain range with various peaks was on display, the peaks illuminating on the visitor pressing a button indicating the mountain peak.A natural history museum of Himalayan wild-life and birds was also on display.Next to the museum was the "Everest Museum" which dealt only with Mt Everest expeditions and literature.In the museum courtyard visitors and tourists could pose for photo's with local  models dressed in Nepali Sherpa dress.I had a photograph of mine removed with a young Sherpa model, my claim to mountaineering fame being "Monsoon Trekking"  the hill-forts of Maharashtra besides  a few pilgrimage peaks like Mt Sinai in Egypt and just a few days ago the Taktsang Monastery in Paro. Enthusiastic  students can learn the basics of mountaineering at this Institute whose training complex is next to the museum beyond the reach of tourists.From the mountaineering Museum i revisited the zoo, studying the animal ande bird exhibits more closely having spent a lifetime visiting zoo's all over the World.At approx 1200 hrs made my way back towards the hotel deciding to hire a taxi as hill station distances seem deceptively close.No taxi's were available  and with great difficulty managed to get a lift and was dropped at the main Chowk Bazaar.Went to my hotel, collected my baggage and entered "Room No 20", a neat freshly painted room and the tiniest that i have ever lived in during my tours. Thats the adventure and glamour of Solo travel unlike "Package tours" where everything is ready-made by the tour organizers..The room was chill cold which made living comfortable but worried me about sleep at night. After changing my clothes and unpacking my binoculars i headed towards the chowk bazaar.Inquired about non-veg restaurants and was directed into the crowded main market to "New Kalika Restaurant". Lunch was "Fish Thali",excellent and filling. After lunch i decided to visit the "Darjeeling Ropeway" and went to the local  shared taxi stand.

St Josephs School ,Darjeeling.

                               The Darjeeling rope-way is located at Singamari, 3 Kms away from the Chowk.Did get a shared taxi and it was a short drive to North Point on Lebong road next to the famous "St Josephs School".Alighted the taxi at North Point and admired "St Joseph's School",  a fascination of my Hindi movie addiction of Darjeeling.This school was once called the "Harrow of the East" as its alumni included Royal families of Nepal,Bhutan, Coochbehar, and Burdwan as also the Shah of Iran's nephews.The school was closed for tourists and visitors and observed young boys playing basketball, a educational institution that reflected class and exclusivity .From Northpoint road opposite St Joseph's school it was a walk up a flight of stairs to the "Ropeway station".

There was a long queue of tourists for the "Cable Car" ride, the charges being Rs 150/person.Finally at approx 1445hrs  i did get my turn to enter the cable car and enjoy and view the ride.The view of the sloping tea-estates was beautiful from the cable-car as also the surrounding city.The cable-car takes you to the extreme end of the valley and back to the starting point..Finished the cable car ride  at approx 1515 hrs and  walked down to North point. Boarded a shared taxi back to the Chowk.

Darjeeling Cable-car.

Decided to spend the rest of the evening on the Internet and relax, too much of physical stress was detrimental to enjoying a exploratory holiday.I walked up the road from Chowk as all roads in any hill-station including Darjeeling either  go up or down, rarely straight akin to flat land.After numerous twists and turns i finally did find a internet cafe and started browsing at "Sumit Computers" on Lama road.After an hours browsing i made my way back to chowk and to my hotel Requested the hotel owner to reserve a car the next morning for a tour of "Tiger Hill", a must visit site on any tourists itinerary.He agreed to the same, the charges being Rs 1000 for the entire car.After confirming my booking i ventured into the chowk and realized that night-life is almost non-existent in Darjeeling.All shops close by 2030 hrs.Dinner was egg noodles at a road-side s take-away.Topped it up with a ice-cream and made my way back to the pigeon hole room  in "Morning Glory hotel".I had set my mobile alarm for 0300 hrs as the car would pick me up at 0400 hrs for the long drive to "Tiger Hill".It was chill cold and somehow managed to get some sleep with a overload of warm clothing..

SUNRISE OVER THE KANCHENJUNGA MOUNTAIN RANGE  AS OBSERVED FROM "TIGER HILL".

Guide Explaining "Sunrise" of Tiger Hill in "Observation Lounge".

Sunday(16-3-2014) :- Woke up much before 0300 hrs and  got myself ready in the "Pigeon hole" hotel room. Thanks to the chilling cold the accommodation was comfortable as i  shudder  at the thought of staying in such a room in hot humid city's  for a few hours let alone a  few days.Thats the advantage of living in Cold Countries or City's.After changing my clothing went to the hotels main dining restaurant and watched T.V. The hotel main gate was locked and the owner opened it at 0400 hrs, the car driver being punctual.It was chilling cold outside, the  car providing warm comfort. It was a uphill drive of 10 Kms , approx  forty five minutes to Tiger hill and i was surprised at the stream of vehicles driving towards destination "Tiger Hill"."Tiger Hill" got its name during the Colonial era when the place was a popular sighting  ground for tigers, the highest peak in Darjeeling District. At approx 0450hrs we reached "Tiger Hill" , the entire parking lot filled with vehicles and a house-full crowd of tourists."Tiger Hill" is the highest point in Darjeeling with a "Mountain-facing" view of the mighty Himalayas in front of it akin to a skyscraper building facing  the sea in a coastal city.                      
       There was a  small two storey "Observation Lounge  Building" with glass window panes  which allowed tourists entry on  payment of  Rs 40. the advantage being that it was warm inside and  there were seats for the early birds.Purchased a ticket and made my way into the lounge, the entire place packed with tourists although off-season. It was a Sunday and hence seems  Kolkotians make Darjeeling the best week-end getaway.A guide explained the various peaks that could be seen once daylight broke over the mighty Kanchenjunga.If lucky, even Mt Everest could be visible from "Tiger Point" and if unlucky then the only mountain range visible would be cloudy mist, a total gamble for tourists paying a fortune to reach "TIGER POINT".

"TIGER HILL" Packed with tourists and vehicles.

                                                                     

At "TIGER HILL" in front of "Observation Lounge Building".

Entire cars and wagons were packed with tourists. The Lounge guide told us the it was our good luck that the weather was clear and and expected sunrise at 0600 hrs .He explained the various peaks and manner of Sunrise as seen from "Tiger Hill". It was a unique phenomenon  in the World and a reason for Darjeeling's importance.The entire small ground in front of the lounge building was packed with tourists and it was suspense at its worst! Finally just before 0600 hrs the Sun could be seen rising  below "Tiger Hill", gradually becoming a bright red orange. This scene has to be witnessed as literature cannot do justice to this beautiful spectacle of nature.As the Sun gained altitude  Mt Kanchenjunga and its  mountain range  gradually became visible, shining snow-white on a clear morning sky-line, luck favouring us.Tourists went camera trigger happy , the lounge providing perfect elevation for photography.The Lounge guide pointed out the peaks and Mt Everest was distinctly visible in the distance   to the left of Mt Kanchenjunga, a small insignificant looking triangular peak. My binoculars paid dividends and was a hit with fellow tourists wanting a view of the mountain at a closer range.It surprises me that most tourists never carry a set of binoculars on tours, one of the most important equipment for sightseeing and not just meant  for "Spy games", "Window-peeping", "Horse-racing" or "Bird-watching".Having visited Nepal and seen  Mt Everest mountain range on the "Mountain Flight Tour"  was amazed at seeing this mountain from land for the first time in my life. It looked very ordinary with binoculars, dwarfed by the mighty Kanchenjunga that loomed on the "Tiger Hill" skyline.After a brief view of the beautiful clear Kanchenjunga and the surrounding mountains entered my vehicle when my "Omega Seamaster Watch" a family heirloom suddenly fell from my hand onto the seat.The  35 year old watch's stainless steel strap had broken and luckily the watch fell into the car and not from the side of a mountain cliff or on the road. A solo tour of bizarre tragedy and narrow escapes., financial as well as physical.At approx 0630 hrs we departed from "Tiger Hill" and en-route the driver/guide showed me Senchal  lake that provided water to Darjeeling.A beautiful lake situated on the mountain edge just below the highway.

Ghoom(Ghum) Monastery.

                          Our next stop was the  Samten Choling Bhuddhist Monastery popularly known as the"Ghoom Monastery(Ghum)" situated at an altitude of 8000 ft..The Monastery follows the Gelug school of Tibetan Buddhism and was built in 1875, the largest of the three Monasteries in Ghoom. Entered the monastery and got a glimpse of Tibetan Buddhism rituals. From Ghoom Monastery we drove to "Batasia Loop", the spiral railway gradient of the Darjeeling Himalayan railway.The Batasia railway loop was constructed in 1919, a unique feat of railway mountain engineering. A garden has been created in the centre of the loop called the "Batasia Eco Garden" and a war memorial to the Gorkha soldiers of Darjeeling who sacrificed their lives in  the Indian armed forces after the Independence of India in 1947.The War memorial was created in 1995.Strolled around the small garden built circumferentially  along the circular railway track.There were hawkers selling handicrafts and other local goods on the trains railway tracks, the same possible as the toy trains began their daily route service after 1000 hrs.Telescopes were on hire for tourists to view Mt Kanchenjunga and its neighboring peaks  with the guide explaining the various peaks and spots of Darjeeling.

"War Memorial" in Batasia loop  Park.

Fueling Coal into the "Toy Train Steam Engine".

                                  Viewed the Kanchenjunga mountain range through the telescope and appreciated the lecture by the guide but it was definitely less powerful than my binoculars vision.For tourists visiting "Batasia Loop" by train can also  visit the   "Himalayan Toy Train Museum" situated at "Ghoom Station" . The main exhibit in the museum is the oldest toy train engine, the "Baby Sivok".Purchased two packets of "Darjeeling Tea" from a hawker  as  taste souvenirs since i grew up on the image of Hindi movies and Darjeeling tea during my youth.After a brief stroll around the park made my way to the exit.There were street stalls selling hot Bhajiya's and tea which became my morning breakfast.Tea is very cheap in Darjeeling costing just Rs 5 or Rs 10 along the common shops and street vendors.Purchased some Bhajiya's for the driver and made my way to the vehicle, a long line of vehicles parked in a straight line on the narrow road.Began our drive towards Chowk Bazaar of Darjeeling. On the way came across a steam engine being fueled with coal near the Darjeeling train station.Stopped and posed for a few photo's, decades since i saw a train steam engine practically in employment and not a museum relic.

Bollywood and Hollywood films shot in Darjeeling.

                                                                                                         Reached my hotel at approx 0830hrs, a wonderful lifetime of memories and worth the luxurious drive, the weather favouring us and lady luck favouring me from losing a expensive wrist watch.Requested  the hotel attendant for a hot bucket of water for bathe, the same costing Rs 30/ bucket.After a rationed hot water bathe at approx 0915 hrs i  made my way out of the hotel onto Chowk bazaar absolutely congested  and filthy.Inquired for directions to the Chowrasta or  Darjeeling Mall, the most popular and cetnre of tourist attraction in Darjeeling city.It was a straight walk upwards from congested Chowk  locality up a flight of stairs onto a hill road.Honestly, the walks up the road inclinations in all Hill stations are torturous to the legs, especially if a person has trekked a 3000 ft  mountain  along with hill-station walks as i had done on this tour.Walked up the inclined hill  and suddenly realized that i was in a plush locality , my first stop being at the "Raj Bhavan" which was situated at the entrance of  Mall Road.Photography was strictly prohibited around Raj Bhavan and after viewing this magnificent residence i walked   towards  Chowrasia.

Cyclists at  Chowrasia. Mountain biking.

CHOWRASIA.

         It was a bright sunny cool day and as i walked further from Raj Bhavan into  Mall road  i was suddenly aghast on seeing the beautiful Kanchenjunga Mountain range in front of me opposite the road.There were benches and i sat on a bench and just admired the beauty of the mountain and the surroundings.There were very few tourists and the view of Kanchenjunga from  Mall Road is better than at "Tiger Point", only difference is that Mt Everest is not visible from here.Walked along the Mall road and reached Chowrasia, the main town centre of Darjeeling city.It was a plush clean circular  paved park that had a huge prominent  statue of Nepali poet Bhanubhakta. Acharya. There were benches  around the circumference of the road near the statue. A  large two storied structure  called the "Hawa Ghar" which holds local cultural programs  is a prominent edifice on Chowrasia. It was a bit crowded with tourists and youngsters.As a hobby cyclists was quick to spot a group of young men and women resting on the benches with their  cycles parked  on the road.Cycling in Darjeeling is definitely akin to a stage competition in  a mini "Tour De  France" race , definitely strenuous.Wonder why India hasn't yet produced competitive cyclists in International road races when the locales  are in existence

"NATHMULLS" tea shop.

The view of the entire Himalayan Mountain range from Chowrasia was excellent , the weather being at its best.In most hill-stations the weather is very unpredictable and bright Sunshine can suddenly give way to dull clouds or fog or rain! I was literally viewing the beautiful landscape while the Sun shone as such chances are rare, especially in a off-season weather condition.There are three roads that terminate or begin at Chowrasia depending on the direction of travel. One of them is  Zakir Hussein road where a local market exists. and the other is Nehru road which comes from below the hill  towards Chowrasia while the third is the Mall road through which i entered Chowrasia.Almost all the shops were closed  barring   two famous tea shops,"Golden Tips(Est 1933)" and "Nathmulls(Est 1931)" , both shops situated next to each other. Entered "Nathmulls " and inquired the various categories of tea and its prices.   Visiting "Nathmulls" made me realize  that the ultra wealthy and money eccentrics  splurged not only on gold and jewelry purchases or at times certain vices  but also on  tea costing Rs 50,000/Kg at "Nathmulls" !"Golden Tips" shop had slightly cheaper quality tea only costing slightly less than Rs 50,000 /Kg! Got to learn the grading and pricing of tea and hope there is a vacancy for a "TEA TASTER", a job i would envy as it would have no retirement age limit.At approx 1030 hrs  made my way down-hill  on  Nehru road from Chowrasia heading towards the "Bengal Natural History Museum".                                                                        

Bengal Natural History Museum.

      In just two days  understood the road topography of Darjeeling city,a maze of uphill and downhill roads, very tiring.Inquiring with locals  finally did find  "Bengal Natural History Museum" , a small heritage building.This museum was originally established in 1903 and remodeled in 2003.It was a excellent and small cozy museum with wonderful exhibits of local flora , fauna and insects of the Himalaya's.Was surprised at seeing the size of the head and horns of a few animals shot at the peak of shikar sports in India during the British Raj.One head of a "Gaur" with distinct bullet holes on the skull was a prized exhibit and had a interesting tragic history to its shooting on 8th May 1922. It was  a rogue animal that entered Darjeeling town in today's Chowrasta and ran wild in the city  killing a local while wounding a few others before being killed by a tea plantation owner, its skull later donated to the museum.Saw one of the largest stuffed crocodiles which i thought was artificial ,too big to be true. The museum guide confirmed its genuineness and  i feel Crocodile expert Mr Romulus.Whitetaker of Madras Snake & Crocodile park would find it difficult to ever capture a crocodile of this size in the wild in 2014 in India.Its sad but true, besides various wild-life species  gradually getting extinct ,  most animal species are also reducing in size in the wild environment due to various factors.I myself have a "SAW-FISH" thorn that could be the second largest in private collection in Mumbai after the specimen at the  "Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Vastu Sangrahalaya(Formerly Prince of Wales Museum)" in Mumbai ! This "Saw- Fish" thorn was purchased in Malindi(Kenya) by dad sometime in the 1960's.

Darjeeling Fish market in "Chowk" locality.

Fish Curry rice.

                                                                    At approx 1115 hrs finished my tour of the museum and walked down the hill road steps to Chowk area.As usual visited the local fish market and realized that the entire North Indian  hill regions specialized in fresh water lake bred fish species, a Bengali delicacy in Darjeeling.Visited a few watch repair shops in order to patch up my expensive "Omega Seamaster" strap and realized that luxury goods are easier to purchase but difficult to maintain.If it was a ordinary watch  strap it  could be replaced by  any local;  watch repairer but being a"Omega Brand" it had a unique watch dismantling method which was a manufacturer's trade secret. Ultimately my wrist watch now became a "Pocket watch" awaiting a strap renewal in Mumbai. This is one reason that has refrained me from purchasing a "Harlery Davidson motorcyle " or a "Trek Cycle".Its easier paying a lump-sum and buying these luxury vehicles but a nuisance regarding maintenance and after-sales services  unless a "Billionaire" having a fleet of  other vehicles.After visiting the watch shops made my way back to the hotel.                                                                                                   After a brief rest and wash headed back towards the Chowk in search of a good fish meal restaurant.Locals guided me  to"Hotel Mahakal & Restaurant" situated  opposite old club-side road, a long inclined walk  from Chowk road..Lunch was a lavish fish curry/rice , just excellent, best fish  food after my night  dinner at "Delhi hotel & Restaurant" in Siliguri .After lunch walked upto Darjeeling station to check out for a short ride on the "Toy Train".There were two short rides from Darjeeling station to Ghum station and back for tourists.The ticket rates were Rs 340/person and fully booked for the two rides of the day. i just got into the toy train bogie and had a photograph shoot for posterity.

"Toy Train" at Darjeeling Station for "Tourist Joy Rides".

"CHOWK" Locality of Darjeeling.

From the train station walked back to Chowk and boarded a shared taxi to "Lebong", my destination being "Tenzing Rock". At approx 1400 hrs reached "Tenzing Rock" which is situated on Lebong road, the shared taxi fare amounting to Rs 20.There were two natural rock formations which were used for "Rock Climbing training"  by trainees of  "Himalayan Mountaineering Institute" as well as tourist rock climbing.One of the rocks is named after  Sherpa Tenzing and hence "Tenzing Rock" while the other on the opposite side of the road  named after Nawang.Gombu, the first man to climb Mt Everest twice  and called "Gombu Rock".                                                                                                                

Practicing "Rock Climbing" on "Tenzing Rock".

              A few young men and women were practicing "Rock Climbing"  on Tenzing rock with ropes, definitely tough and requiring good physical conditioning.Picked up a conversation with a hawker and he enthralled me with tales of his own mountain climbing experiences, himself having partly climbed Mt Kanchenjunga in his youth.Seems most Gorkhas of Darjeeling have done some sort of mountain-climbing sometime in their life-time.As a horse-racing enthusiast i had intentions of visiting the now defunct  "Lebong Race-course" of Darjeeling having wonderful memories of attending the "Derby Race day" at Ooty race-course in Tamil Nadu in the 1990's.The hawker advised me that it was futile visiting "Lebong Race-course" as it was now converted into a Army parade  ground and tourists banned from entry into the complex.,This race-course had the distinction of being the smallest  race-course(one  lap = 480 yard) in the World as well as the highest in the World( 1809 meters). Finally from "Tenzing Rock"  made my way back to Chowk in a shared taxi alighting near the gate of "Bishop House".Its a residence for the clergy of the Catholic diocese in Darjeeling. Strolled around crowded Chowk locality visiting the market and came across shops selling masks and colours for the  Hindu festival of Holi to be celebrated the next day on Monday(17-3-2014).At 1530 hrs decided to revisit the Mall and Chowrasia and hence began my uphill walk from Chowk towards the Mall. The route to the Mall  passes through the  imposing historical religious edifice of  "St Andrews Church" built in 1843 and later badly damaged by a earthquake and  rebuilt in 1873.

St Andrews Church.

"Darjeeling Gymkhana".

The Church looked imposing perched on the top of a hill from the road. It was a tiring walk to the church from the road and was worth the uphill walk.As i neared the Church i heard the sound of a organ playing and hymns being sung, sounds emitting from a closed door .Opened the door  and  stared into the the Church chapel surprised to see a small group of  young  men and women singing hymns while a gentleman played the organ and conducted the "Prayer Hymn" ritual. Two women were standing and  singing hymns as if in a trance while the rest were seated on chairs, totally immersed in the lyrics of the hymn. The organist beckoned  me to have a seat in the group to which i obliged.St Andrews is a "Anglican Church" and the early worshipers were Scottish soldiers and tea-planter owners.There were a few mural tablets of some of the oldest residents of Darjeeling in this small chapel. Lt General A.Lloyd who is credited for laying the foundation of Darjeeling has a mural tablet inside the main church which was closed  to public.The organist was definitely of  Anglo-Indian origin  or a Scotsman,  handsome and young  more like a opera  rock star than a simple church choir conductor with a wonderful voice.Didn't  Cliff.Richard begin his singing career in Church Choirs as also late Freddie.Mercury who sang in school choirs ?Spent a few minutes with the choir group and later made my exit as this was my last day in Darjeeling and some exploration of surprises was still  to be seen.From St Andrews Church i entered  "Darjeeling Gymkhana" ground situated on the hill gradient  just below St Andrews Church.The Club was established in 1909 , a typical British ear club .It offered numerous sports facilities like tennis, squash, badminton, table tennis and roller skating. Tourists could take temporary membership for a month or two and avail of the sports facilities.

Holiday crowd on Chowrasia.

From the Gymkhana walked the now familiar route towards Raj Bhavan and onto the Mall road.I was surprised at the total disappearance of the Kanchenjunga mountain range on entering mall road, the enire mountain view blocked by opaque fog. It was only 17oo hrs and just in the morning i had got a better view of Kanchenjunga from this same location than at Tiger hill ! This shows the effects of change of weather on viewing mountain peaks and scenery. Sat on the same bench for a while staring into opaque mist and had a conversation with two other tourists from Kolkota.After a brief conversation headed towards Chowrasia and was greeted by a holiday crowd enjoying themselves on the circular paved ground.There were pony rides and a host of other activities, all tourists clad in warm clothing.Strolled around Zakir Hussain road and had a look at the local shops and eatable stalls.Visited a curio shop and inquired about "Gorkha Knives" and the various qualities and pricing.There was a imposing and prominent hotel on Chowrasia near the entrance to Zakir Hussain road called "Bellevue Hotel" which had internet facilities.Entered the hotel and was surprised at its plush interiors, a Old World hotel which also had a "Fire-Wood" heating rooms for its clients.Browsed on the internet for an hour feeling at home in this plush hotel.From the hotel i made my way downhill to Nehru street into the mall market.Visited a few curio shops and later a book-stall. I was surprised to find a novel titled " Byculla to Bangkok" published in 2014  and  written by former investigative journalist Mr Hussain.Zaidi. This was the the latest book  from the author of "Black Friday" which was made into a film  the topic being   the "1993 Mumbai bomb blasts". Browsed through the book which described the "Who's Who" of the Mumbai Underworld and their Godfathers.I had spent seven years of my youth living in Byculla and Bangkok was as familiar as central Mumbai and hence was fascinated by the title of this true life underworld book. From the bookshop  entered Glenary's Bakery and Cafe", the iconic restaurant of Darjeeling.It had the typical colonial architecture, a small  white coloured two storey cottage building with the restaurant on the ground floor.Entered the restaurant which again brought back vintage nostalgia , a huge red phone booth installed at the entrance aisle, totally defunct in the cell-phone era of the 21st century. Ordered a "Sausage Pattice" and toured this cosy, classy restaurant. It also had a "Internet cafe" in one section of the ground floor restaurant  and a mezzanine restaurant.It was bizarre contrast  having a vintage showpiece "Telephone booth" as well as internet cybercafe in the same location, the former a museum piece.From Glenary's  i walked  down to Hotel Mahakal and restaurant  for dinner. Since it was packed with diners decided to eat in the Nepali restaurant next to it and got a taste of  "Nepali Pork Thali".After a sumptuous dinner walked down the inclined road and steps to Chowk locality. It was the eve of Holi festival and a group of people had begun the festivity by parading in colours along Chowk road, also throwing colours in the night.Entire Darjeeling comes to a close by 2100 hrs, absolutely no night-life.Purchased a ice-cream on the way to my hotel and by 2000 hrs i was in my pigeon-hole room.Had a normal four to five  hours sleep waking up at approx 0400 hrs.Packed my bags and  later watched television in the main restaurant lobby.

Classic downtown Gangtok. "Mahatma Gandhi Road".

Monday(17-3-2014) :-The main hotel residential gate was opened at approx 0600 hrs and i was surprised to see a full fledged bakery and confectionery factory functioning from the ground floor of "Hotel Morning Glory".Seems the  locals of Darjeeling love bread and pastries with cakes being sold in almost all shops on the streets.Bakeries were a cottage Industry in Darjeeling, the cakes tasty and cheap. For the first time in my life got to witness the manufacture of bread and plum cakes reminding me of the boiler room furnaces on ships.At approx 0700 hrs i checked out from the hotel  , the room lodging seeming full as the tourist season was beginning with the start of Holi festival  with  the plains of West Bengal getting warmer and hot.Made my way to the taxi stand and was lucky to get a immediate shared taxi costing  Rs 200/person  to Gangtok.Gangtok is approx 98 Kms from Darjeeling.Our jeep departed at approx 0730 hrs and the  route was initially through Ghoom.

"Teesta Bridge" across the Teesta river enroute to Gangtok.

                                                                                                                     At 0900 hrs we stopped for breakfast at Lopchu and tasted Nepali Sabji(Vegetables)/roti's .After breakfast it was a downhill  drive   through Teesta Bazaar and the Teesta river   onto highway NH31 A. Its a upward drive from Teesta Bazaar with a bifurcation later  near the Gangtok /Kalimpong crossroad.Observed a lot of trucks on the Teesta river bed mining the river sand. On entering Sikkim State border the roads  seemed better and at approx 1015 hrs we entered Rangpo City, the border city between West  Bengal and Sikkim.The cleanliness  and road  maintenance  of Sikkim reminded me a little of Bhutan. Passed by  "Sikkim  Manipal Institute of Technology"  and seems the Manipal Institute of technology(Udupi) is on par with the I.I.T's in terms of popularity, franchisees  and patronage.As a speculator i was anxious to visit a casino in Gangtok, the only State in India that had land based legal casino gambling.In Goa, the other state that has legalized casino gambling its location is "Offshore" on a ship docked in Panjim. On approaching the suburbs of Gangtok witnessed the grand celebration of Holi festival on the streets, mostly young children and the youth. I suddenly saw the long awaited sign "Mayfair Gangtok(Spa resort  and  Casino)", a beautiful hotel located on the base of a small hill-top.A genuine legal casino spotting at last. I have been a staunch vocalist on the internet to "LEGALIZE SPORTS BETTING IN INDIA" , having started a group on facebook and also demonstrating the permutations and combinations of "SPECULATIVE SPORTS GAMBLING".

Sikkim is the only state in India having legal land Gambling casino's.

                                                                                                                                      My late 22 year old Alexandrine parakeet"Mittoo alias Mittoo the poppat" was worth over Rs 5 Crores(5 Khokhas) at the time of his untimely demise on Monday(10-3-2014), his bets purely made by me as a notional money game  to prove universally that "SPORTS BETTING" is as risky or as  easy as "Stock Market Trading".At approx 1130 hrs we finally reached the Deorali bus stand in Gangtok . It was almost 2 Kms from downtown M.G road in Gangtok and hence had to hire another private taxi.The taxi driver Mr Santosh.Tamang agreed to take me to the cheapest accommodation in downtown Gangtok and hence drove me to "Hotel Pineridge" on Nam Nang road.Hotel rentals were most expensive in Gangtok, costlier than Bhutan or Darjeeling. After much bargaining the hotel manager agreed to provide me room nos 102 on the first floor  at a rental of Rs 700/Day(Off-Season), myself being one of the few guests in the three storey hotel.I informed taxi driver Santosh to make arrangements for the "Nathula Pass Tour" on Wednesday(18-3-2013)   for which he took a xerox copy of my passport and 2 nos passport photo's.All correspondence was through cell-phone and he quickly contacted a travel agent and immediately arranged a seat on a shared taxi at Rs 800/Person.He also agreed to take me on a guided taxi tour of Gangtok, the common mode of sightseeing for tourists in Gangtok as there are no shared tour buses, besides, this was the tourist off-season.I  showed him the list of tourist sites i wanted to visit and he agreed to drive me to those places at a cost of Rs 600, a half day taxi tour.He told me to be ready by 0900 hrs the next day for the half day tour of Gangtok city.After thanking Santosh and paying him Rs 150 as his taxi charge  i made my way to my room, a large spacious room with T.V and attatched bathe.Gangtok seemed clean and tidy compared to Darjeeling, very much like Bhutan barring the population.

Sikkim Legislative Assembly.

It was Sunny  and cool, not cold like Darjeeling or Bhutan.Changed my clothes and headed out of the hotel, my destination being the "Gangtok Ropeway" which was a uphill walking distance from my hotel. The "Ropeway building" was not outstanding on the city skyline, a common 4 storey building with a small ticket office.The rope-way timings were from 0930 to 1700 hrs daily and the ticket charges Rs 70/person. I had reached the ticket booking office at approx 1300 hrs which was lunch-time and hence walked towards NamNang point also called "SUICIDE POINT", just walking distance from the ropeway. On the way passed by the "Sikkim Legislative assembly" building, a palatial estate.Finally walking through narrow mountain track and later rock stairs  reached "Nam Nang point  (Suicide Point)".There were a lot of Gangtok's youth celebrating Holi with beers and colours  in this terraced mountain garden park.

Youth celebrating "Holi Festival" at "Nam Nang Point(Suicide Point)".

 There is a small garden plot on the edge of the mountain cliff from where a person gets a beautiful view of the valley below. No doubt its called "Suicide Point" as a jump from here means a leap from here to eternity and a few suicides must have occured and hence the name.After a brief rest at this picturesque spot  returned back to the Ropeway office and booked my ticket for the ride.
After purchasing the ticket i was directed towards the building lift and taken 4 floors below, a bizarre rope-way ride.Alighted the lift and got into the rope-way with a few other tourists.It was a beautiful birds eye view ride on the rope-way between Nam Nang and Deorali and back to  Nam Nang.  

View from the "Gangtok Ropeway".

                                           It was approx a 20 minutes ride and the view of Gangtok city was excellent, on a clear sunshine afternoon.At approx 1400 hrs finished my "Ropeway Ride" and made my way down-hill to the hotel.It was a beautiful small 3-storey hotel situated in prime Gangtok locality, walking distance from "M.G.Road" and other shopping centers.After drinking a peg of "Ara" in my hotel walked towards M.G road for lunch.On the way stepped into "Ridge restaurant and bar"  just a few meters away from my hotel as i was famished with hunger. Lunch was "Chicken Momo's",excellent with still better local hip hop music playing on the restaurant  music system..After lunch walked in a straight line towards "M.G. Road(Mahatma Gandhi Road)" and found a large group of youth celebrating the festival of Holi. All the shops were closed barring one or two eateries.The road was clean  and buildings uniform and well maintained mostly painted light green in colour. None of the buildings were above 5 storeys tall giving the locality a uniformed disciplined elevation."M.G Road" began where Nam Nang road ended, all in a straight single road from my hotel.The main "M.G Road" town center was at a curve in the road where it broadened with shopping centers on both sides, all shops  closed due to the "Holi Festival".

DIFFERENT HAIRSTYLES ! With Mr Rajesh.Basnett.

                                                                                                                                               The  broad plush locality was filled with people celebrating Holi. most of them covered in colours. A young boy approached me and applied a symbolic Holi tikka on my forehead, thankfully not immersing me in colours.As all shops on M.G road were closed barring a liquor shop i just walked aimlessly along the straight road towards a garden. Spotted a man with Rastafarian hairstyle in the garden and picked up a conversation with him. I have rarely come across Rastafarian hairstyle  Indian men  barring "Sadhu's" and similarly Mr Basnett must have rarely seen a "Half-Beard Indian" !Mr Rajesh.Basnett with shoulder length Rastafarian hair was as colourful as his hairstyle. A self styled traveler akin to me he was more on religious trips once living as a hermit monk in a cave for over a month !He told me that the parks name was "Titanic Park", a bizarre name for land-locked Sikkim.Throughout my solo tours i have met interesting and colourful men and women and made new acquaintances , never ever  "ALONE". In  the park i suddenly observed a group of young boys and girls speaking in "Sign Language".Rajesh told me that these youth were deaf and dumb and met occasionally in this small park on M.G road for socializing.Seeing these young handsome and pretty group of youngsters  with their inborn handicap made me forget all my worries, just happy that God was kind to bless me as a normal human let alone being rich, poor or famous. Yes, travel educates.After a  long conversation with Mr Rajesh.Basnett  i walked back towards Nam Nang road. Inquired about the price of liquor in the only shop open on M.G road  and was aghast to know that beer cost only Rs 50, on par with duty-free liquor in Goa.State of Goa and Sikkim had two similarities, both had legalized gambling casino's and both served duty-free liquor.Purchased two bottles of "Kingfisher beer", my favourite Indian beer brand and walked happily towards "Pineridge Hotel".Deposited the beer bottles in my hotel and decided to explore the other end of Nam Nang road, the downhill road that led to Deorali .Walking downhill in the opposite direction to "M.G.Road" would lead me to Deorali , the same place where i boarded the taxi on arrival in Gangtok.On the way came across a "Big Bazaar" department store, a few meters from my hotel on the down-hill road.Entered the stores and realized that all "Big Bazaar" stores were the same in India irrespective of city, all commodities under one roof.After the "Big Bazaar" visit walked further downhill realizing that returning back uphill would be a test of my body tolerance.Met a local Sikkimese man with whom i picked up a interesting conversation and got to understand briefly the culture and topography of Gangtok city.I inquired the location of "Hotel Royal Plaza", the first casino hotel in Gangtok and he told me that it was at Deorali , just a downhill walk. He was going in the same direction and agreed to guide me but i realized that returning back in the dark night would be the problem.

"Pineridge Hotel(White)" my 3 day residence in Gangtok.

                        Thanked him for the helpful guidance and made my way back uphill towards "Pineridge hotel".On the way visited the  plush "Tara Hotel" and inquired the daily room tariff.They charged only Rs 6000/day,very exorbitant for  a ordinary plush hotel as there are no 5-star hotels in Gangtok.Another plush hotel,"Doma Palace"  was a little further uphill and inquired the tariff which was Rs 3000/day. Both these hotels were just a few meters walking distance from "Pineridge Hotel" on NamNang road and hence i felt i got a bargain stay irrespective of the hotels shortcomings.As a investor in hotel shares and a fascination for hotels i always make it a point to check the costliest  and the cheapest  hotels in a city for price comparisons.On arriving at my hotel quenched my thirst with a beer and headed towards "M.G. Road" for dinner. All shops were closed barring a McDonalds fast food shop. Dinner was a simple Chicken/cheese roll(Rs 140) topped up with ice-cream. Returned back to my hotel and called it a day.Watched T.V until i fell asleep.

"ORCHID FLOWER CONTEST & EXHIBITION"  in Gangtok.

 Tuesday( 18-3-2014) :- Woke up at 0400 hrs to visit the toilet and realized that there was absolutely no water in the bathroom.Luckily i had filled a bucket of water and that provided emergency toilet services. Watched T.v and at 0500 hrs went to the lobby to inform the manager about water stoppage.Seems the hotel was full of guests as other lodgers also woke up protesting the water stoppage. The manager woke up and informed us that there was a severe water shortage in Gangtok due to some repairs and his hotel was effected, the water supply being rationed.The water supply did resume at 0800 hrs and after a quick wash got ready for the days tour programme.It had rained in the night and hence there was a abrupt drop in ambient temperatures, cool but not chilling cold.For the first time on the hill-stations tour i put on a T-shirt and not double warm clothing.Taxi driver Santhosh couldn't make it and so he sent his friend to drive me on a half-day city tour.Taxi driver Mr D.N.Rai arrived at my hotel at 0900 hrs  and the taxi tour began. Taxi's are very well maintained in Sikkim, Maruti alto cars which negotiate the hill climbs and troughs elegantly.Our first stop was a short 15 minutes drive from Pineridge hotel.The "Flower Exhibition Center" was a enclosed climate controlled flower garden and this was the first day of the "ORCHID FLOWER SHOW" inside the exhibition center. The entrance fee was Rs 20 and on entering the exhibition centre i was transferred into another World, a World of unbelievable Orchids.I have visited"Kew Gardens" in London and the "Ooty Flower Show" in Tamil Nadu and should say that Gangtok's "Orchid Flower Show" ranks amongst the World's best.The orchids looked artificial, akin to the cheap crepe imitations in shops, too beautiful to be true and genuine. This is the secret of these Orchids breeders success.A competition was held the previous day and prizes awarded to various types and categories of orchids, the same tagged on the plants.The Orchid garden was beautifully landscaped and is the main attraction of Sikkim during the month of March, peak orchid flowering season.

At the "Flower Show(Orchids)" in Gangtok. 

The Orchid show signifies the start of the tourist season in Sikkim, the weather getting warmer on the plains and cool in Gangtok.
After being floored by the beauty of the orchids we drove towards the "Enchey Monastery".   This monastery was established in 1909 on a hill in Gangtok.It was gutted in a fire in 1947 and rebuilt in 1948.The latest minor damage  was  in the 2006 Sikkim Earthquake,its stone masonry walls suffering partial  cracks.Its a long walk to the monastery  from the main gate where vehicles park. "Tibetan Prayer Wheels" are erected on the left  side of the path leading to the monastery.  The Monastery building is not the original construction as it was rebuilt after a devastating fire.The Monastery has residential monks ranging from young boys to men. Two young boy monks wanted a look from my binoculars and were thrilled, cute in their monk attire.

Pathway to "Enchey Monastery".

From the "Enchey Monastery" it was a short drive to "Ganesh Tok".It is a small Ganesh temple located on a hillock at a total height of 6500 ft one of  the highest points  in Gangtok. After purchasing a entrance ticket had to climb up a flight of stairs to reach the temple complex.A amazing "Birds Eye View" of Gangtok is available from the "View Point"  next to the main Ganesh temple.Gangtok's television tower is situated on a hill below Ganesh tok.After a brief view of Gangtok from Ganesh Tok summit i walked down the stairs and came back to the entrance gate. At "Ganesh Tok" tourists can take "Selfie" photographs in Sikkimese costumes, akin to a film shoot and i did take a photo of myself in local Sikkimese dress.Ultimately its memories that is a part and parcel of our experiences, travels and sorrows on Planet Earth.

View of Gangtok from "GANESH TOK".

"BAKTHANG FALLS" with "Flying -Fox Trapeze" rope-way with "Safety Net".

  The "Himalayan Zoological Park Bulbulay" is situated adjacent to "Ganesh tok", a short uphill walk on the next small hillock. As i had already visited zoo's in Thimphu and Darjeeling the Gangtok zoo didn't capture my time as it would have a similar animal and bird species as in the Darjeeling zoo.The Gangtok zoo is larger and according to its external sign-board has camouflaged natural zoo enclosures and hence spotting animal species difficult and time consuming.Hence i decided to skip the zoo tour and we drove towards Gonjang Monastery.At approx 1100 hrs reached the gates of Gonjang Monastery which is situated near Tashi viewpoint.This Monastery was established recently in 1981 a modern edifice.After a quick tour of the small Monastery complex it was a short drive along National highway  31 A  to "Bakthang Falls"  .There was a small trickle of water along the rock face which was the "Bakthang  waterfall" , not a gushing waterfall in the month of March. A  "Flying Fox"  trapeze rope-way  installed from one end of the rock face to the other end, a short distance of approx 50 meters was a thrill for tourists..Experienced the short"Flying Fox" trapeze to add to my list of a "Been here, done that" and that photograph is the introductory photo of this tour blog.After "Bakthang Falls"  we drove towards the handicrafts centre. On the way came across the armed forces " Black Cat Institute" constructed in 1972, a social elite club for Army officers and guests . A "Black Cat" was  the mascot of the institute reminding me of my own cats back home in Mumbai. The Sikkim Handicrafts  complex was a building housing various handicrafts on the ground floor.Met a tourist couple  from Chennai in the Handicraft hall.  Mr Murali and his wife  remembered me as the "Binocular tourist"  as they got a glimpse of Kanchenjunga and Mt Everest from my binoculars at "Tiger Point" in Darjeeling. After a brief conversation  and self introduction we went our ways,  my next stop being the  "Namgyal Institute of Tibetology" . It is a Tibetan museum documenting Tibetan history and Monasteries in Sikkim.            

"NAMGYAL INSTITUTE OF TIBETOLOGY".

     Parked the taxi outside the main gate and walked into the Museum premises. The Institute building was undergoing a face-lift.Photography inside the museum was strictly prohibited. There were a few tourists and got a brief understanding of Tibetan history.Viewed utensils made of human skulls meant for religious rituals .The foundation stone of the Namgyal Institute of Tibetology was laid on 10th February 1957 by the 14th Dalai Lama and officially opened on 1 October 1958 by  by the  First Prime Minister of India Pandit Jawaharlal.Nehru. After browsing through the museum exhibits and literature made my way back to the vehicle and visited the Institutes souvenir shop situated outside the main gate.Browsed through the handicrafts , this being my last tourist point stop of the half-day private  tour hire.At approx 1240 hrs  i got into the taxi and told taxi-driver Mr D.N.Rai to leave me at "Hotel Royal Plaza", the casino hotel. It was a short drive to Deorali and "Hotel Royal Plaza", the hotel situated insignificantly among a cluster of houses. Paid driver Mr D.N.Rai the taxi tour fees of Rs 600 as also the next days tour fees of "Nathula Pass" which amounted to Rs 800.Made my way into the hotel lobby which seemed ordinary.This hotels claim to fame is that it was the first land based gambling casino in India.In all casino's i visited entrance was always  "FREE"  while in some country's they asked for nationality proof(Passport) as locals were not allowed to gamble. This was the first casino that i came across  where entry was on purchase of gaming chips.                                                        

HOTEL ROYAL PLAZA AND CASINO.

                                                                                                                                        The casino opened at 1800 hrs in the evening and remained open  to 0400 hrs in the morning.Entry to the Casino was on a minimum purchase of Rs 3000 worth gaming chips which were non-exchangeable for money. In simple  words entrance to the Casino cost Rs 3000/person if a loser at the tables! After a brief look at the hotels casino notices i made my way out into the narrow street and headed  towards a restaurant for lunch.Strolled around Deorali and realized that it was a long straight uphill walk towards Nam Nang  and "M.G Road". Entered a small Sikkimese restaurant in Deorali Bazaar  but found the food not to my liking and hence decided to head home back to the hotel for lunch.As there were no shared taxi's available it was a torturous uphill walk in the cool weather.Nearing halfway near my destination i got a lift and was dropped just outside my hotel.Rushed to my hotel room and after a quick bathe consumed a "Kingfisher beer" i had purchased.At approx  1400 hrs headed towards M.G road for lunch and was surprised to again find almost all shops closed, reason being that Tuesday was a compulsory "Shop Holiday" .A fast food shop "Chicken Roll House" was open and i rushed inside ordering a chicken sausage  roll. After the snack headed towards main M.G road deciding to rest in a cybercafe browsing the Internet.A slight drizzle began which gradually increased into continuous rain, something i had experienced for the first time in India in the month of March. Headed into a cyber cafe on the first floor of a building, the gradual drizzle developing into thunder and continuous rain.The cybercafe was "House-full" besides the Internet service was erratic due to the rains, power supply being effected.Managed to browse a few minutes on the erratic internet service and later strolled around the mall in the light drizzle.Decided to explore the downhill road at the turn of M.G road onto Nam Nang road and was surprised at the Bazaar atmosphere  on entering  "Lallmarket " road . Hawkers  were  peddling clothing on the side street and there were numerous provision stores on either side of the market, a very crowded locality compared to plush and clean M.G. road.Purchased a cap and warm gloves from a hawker, clothing for the next day's day tour to "Nathula Pass".

Crowded narrow "Lalmarket" road".

                                                                              Walked downhill  and came to the main "Lalbazar" market of Gangtok, a huge  market.A very crowded locality compared to the tourist locales of Nam Nang and M.G road. Lalbazar was where the common Sikkimese shopped for their daily needs and living.There were numerous small restaurants in the locality, the rain creating muck in  the area. Entered the "Lalbazar market" and as usual toured the vegetable section and got to view organic vegetables , the prices expensive. One  kg of organic potatoes cost Rs 40/kg.From the Organic vegetable market walked back uphill to M.G. road and to my hotel.On arrival at my hotel i was surprised to see a load of tourists checking into the hotel, the tourist season having begun with the "Orchid Show" and "Pineridge hotel" packed to capacity. On arrival at my hotel the rains began, a heavy shower, very unseasonal rains in Gangtok. Had a hot water bathe and dinner was beer and snacks.I was hoping that the "Nathula Pass" trip would not be postponed due to rains as the mountain roads become dangerous for driving.

Tourists at Tsomgo(Changgu) Lake .The lake side covered in thick ice and snow.

In the snow at picturesque  "TSOMGO LAKE".

Wednesday(19-3-2014) :- The dogs woke  me up at 0300 hrs and whiled away my time watching T.V and later having a luxurious hot water bathe. Gangtok has lots of street dogs and at times they bark at unearthly hours.I just hoping that the "Nathula Pass" tour would not be cancelled due to overnight rain. It was a pleasant bright morning and breakfast was a snack/tea at a take-away restaurant a few meters  opposite my hotel.Rang up taxi-driver Rai as he was to collect me at the hotel and take me to the main shared-tour taxi stand.Later Taxi-driver Santosh.Tamang my main Gangtok tour organizer  rang me saying that  the shared jeep  tourist car would collect me from the hotel on its way to collect other co-tourists.At approx 0800 hrs a jeep came and picked me up and drove to  Hotel Fair view on Kazi road  to collect some other tourists. After collecting the tourists we headed towards the main taxi stand in Deorali.It was a long wait of almost one hour for the next batch of tourists, a young couple with their two kids.This was my first "Package Tour" and made acquaintances with the Sarkar family from Calcutta, a couple with their young school going son and daughter accompanying them.The family were avid travelers within India, always going on a vacation during the children's holiday.My binoculars fascinated the kids.We finally began our road voyage to Nathula pass at approx  0930 hrs, a delay of a hour and a distance of approx 56 Kms from Gangtok."Nathula Pass is situated at a altitude of  14,450 feet , hence a long drive up the mountain highway in a tourist convoy of jeeps.We were a total of 12 tourists in the small jeep including the driver.  At approx 1015 hrs we reached the main security check-post where the tourist permits are scrutinized for entry to "Nathula Pass". The weather was bright and sunny.                                                                                                              .

Serpentine convoy of Tourist jeeps. Notice the snow.

The winding highway road boundary guard resembled the "Great Wall of China" from a distance, a uniform pattern in the railing guards.It was a beautiful drive in a jeep convoy of numerous tourists up the treacherous mountains.As we gained altitude for the first time this year i came across snow-fall on the sides of the road. We had a short stop at a restaurant for tea where i relished noodles which in hindsight proved a useful energy meal for the entire "Nathula Pass" tour!after the restaurant stop we began our uphill mountain drive a beautiful convoy of tourist  jeeps.At approx 1200 hrs we finally arrived at Tsomgo lake  situated at a altitude of 12,310 feet, the entire landscape covered in snow. We were told that the road to "Nathula Pass" was closed due to snow and hence"Tsomgo Lake" would be the final destination.Akin to the normal "Package tour" agenda our tour driver told us to report back to the jeep at 1400 hrs for our return journey back to Gangtok.We all headed in different directions, myself the rare  lone tourist, the rest all families of couples.

Yaks walk leisurely on slippery iced  rock cut steps.

                                                                                                                           The beauty of Tsomgo lake surrounded by a carpet of white snow is indescribable in print where photography or painting can do justice. The entire landscape was crowded with tourists, the weather gradually getting cloudy.Walked up a flight of iced slippery  steps  which led to the Alpine Cafeteria( 12,900 ft) which was closed, my hunger pangs growing in the chilling freezing ice surroundings. Many tourists were taking Yak rides and akin to mules on dry land the yaks are absolutely sure-footed on dry ice. It amazed me watching the yaks walk leisurely up and down the flight of iced steps with a tourist on their back. A slip on the part of the yak could endanger both, the yak and its rider.For the first time in my life i understood the utility of the Yak to mountain dwellers during freezing winters.Walked around the lake area savoring its beauty and remoteness. Saw a beautiful small hut built by the army called "Changgu hut" and entered the same mistaking it to be a luxury cafeteria for tourists.The presence of  a few army-men in uniform didn't make me realize that this was a private army social club and not a luxury  tourist cafeteria .I took a photograph of the "Tsomgo lake map " framed on the wall and was immediately accosted by a army-man.He asked me for my credentials and told me to delete the photo taken inside "Changgu hut".I was afraid of erasing the entire photograph collection and hence told him to do the same. He approached a young girl who immediately erased the photo with a few movements of button jabbing and i was thankful that a foolish  misunderstanding on my part was solved amicably.This tour was a bizarre tour of "Photography disputes", first instance being the "Elephant video shoot" in the Doars region of W.Bengal  and now  a Army club photo-shoot  misunderstanding.This area of Sikkim is military sensitive due to the "Indo-China Border" and thankfully i was not arrested as a anti-social element.The sky and valley suddenly got dark and cloudy with thunder in the sky.Strolled around the lake-side area and suddenly saw a familiar face in the tourist crowd,. Mr Murali and his wife were leisurely walking in the ice and this was the third instance that we bumped into each other.Took a photograph of us both, a bizarre co-incidence of totally unknown tourists meeting on three different occasions on tour.

Our Tourist jeep covered in snow due to hail-storm.

                                                                                                                           

Suddenly it began to snow heavily which gradually developed into a hailstorm and instead of relishing lunch in a restaurant i rushed towards the jeep as did all other tourists. Everyone was worried of spending the night stuck at Tsomgo lake  in freezing cold due to the hailstorm and road  blockage.At approx 1330 hrs all the co-tourists arrived in the jeep and we began our slow return journey of approx 40 Kms(25 Miles) down the mountain highway to Gangtok. For the first time in my life i heard the sound of hailstorm hitting the roof of the car and the windshield wipers  used to wipe of snow rather than rain water.There were traffic jams and long stoppages en-route but luckily  not a permanent halt of the tourist jeep convoy.Observed a chain being tied to the back-wheels of a tourist jeep in order to enable good traction in the slippery iced  highway.This was a real experience for all of us and we didn't regret missing the sightseeing tour of Nathula pass as this was unbelievable real life adventure in Sikkim.A huge army truck  was also in the convoy, its large wheels clearing the highway off snow due to its weight akin to a tractor.

The "Iced Highway" down to Gangtok from Tsomgo Lake.

 Finally at approx 1730 hrs we reached Gangtok. Roads in Gangtok are mostly all One-way roads and hence the driver dropped us away from our hotels. I shared a taxi with the Sarkar family and was dropped off at my hotel, end of a memorable tour of Tsomgo lake with a lucky escape of returning back to Gangtok on the same day. Had a nice hot water bathe, the same neutralizing my feet which had almost become numb due to seepage of ice water into my shoes and the long 4-hour journey back to Gangtok.I was literally starving having not had lunch  and spotted a plush confectionery shop "Cookie Man"  opposite my hotel open for the first time since my arrival in Gangtok.. Entered  "Cookie Man" and purchased a vegetable puff, returning back to my hotel room to relish the same.Later purchased a beer bottle from a shop next to the hotel and drank the same in my comfortable large room.This hotel had a excellent location, situated in prime Gangtok with my large   room having a excellent view of the street  below, the weather being cool and hence windows open. After the beer headed towards M.G road for dinner, my last day in Gangtok.                                                                     Dinner was at "Chopsticks", a plush Tibetan restaurant situated on the first floor of a building  on prime M.G road.Dinner was a local Tibetan specialty "Fingreuth blackmushroom with rice". Consumed my dinner watching T.V. in this plush restaurant.

Dinner at "Chopsticks".

This was the plushest restaurant i had visited during my entire tour, a excellent eventful day being celebrated with a quiet dinner. After dinner walked around M.G road and spotted a man walking a beautiful young bull-mastiff dog.Took a photograph of them and later of a black labrador  roaming alone without its owner. Stepped into "Maharajahs" sweets shop and purchased some Bengali sweets. Returned back to the hotel  eating cone ice-cream, the ultimate glutton.Watched T.v and finished the sweets, the dinner compensating for the missed lunch.It was a good nights sleep and on waking up in the morning  realized that the water supply was shut.I had filled two buckets and realized that at maximum tourist capacity the hotels water system supply couldn't cope with the demand for hotel water among the lodgers.This was otherwise a excellent hotel located in prime Gangtok.

"DEOLA HILL PARK" in Kalimpong.

Thursday(20-3-2013) :- At approx 0545 hrs made my way out of the hotel for a morning walk deciding to  explore a short downhill road that would definitely lead to "Lalmarket". It was a long downhill walk and was surprised to reach right into the centre of the meat market, a congested  place with a puddle of water due to rain.. A truck had arrived with a load of slaughtered beef, the carcasses not skinned , the animals freshly slaughtered.It was akin to being in a abbotair and i saw a butcher transferring a head of a bullock from the truck to the shop.A ghastly sight but the hard facts of human non-vegetarian food.From the butchers abbotair returned back to my hotel having tea on the way.Packed up my bags and checked out of the hotel at 0645hrs  , an excellent stay barring the water problems .Caught a taxi  to Deorali  taxi stand, the fare being Rs 100 .On arrival at the taxi stand was accosted by a taxi driver and boarded a shared taxi to Kalimpong. Kalimpong was actually not on my planned tour itinerary, a saved extra tour day being the reason for visiting this hill-station en-route to Siliguri.Thats the greatest advantage of "Solo Travel" compared to "Packaged group tours", the fact that travel plans can be adjusted or changed according to time availability and tour budget.At approx 0730 hrs the jeep taxi departed for Kalimpong collecting other passengers on the way.At  0900 hrs we arrived on the Sikkim border town of Rangpo and later entered into the State of W.Bengal.A little further ahead into W.Bengal we stopped at a village restaurant for breakfast.A classic  Gorkha village restaurant in the midst of dense teak forest.Breakfast was "Sabji(Vegetable)/tea", cheap and excellent

Exit "Sikkim Border" and into "State of W.Bengal.

.                                                               After breakfast we headed towards Kalimpong, a uphill mountain drive. Kalimpong is situated 4100 ft above sea level and is a sub-division of Darjeeling district .It was the gateway of trade between India and Tibet before the annexation of Tibet in 1959 and later the Indo-China war in 1962 that resulted in closure of the "Jelep Pass" .Reached  Kalimpong  bus and taxi stand at approx 1045 hrs  , a very congested locality.On alighting the jeep headed straight to the nearest lodge near the taxi/bus  stand,  "Lodge Himashree".Had to walk up a flight of three storeys in the desolate building suddenly hearing the loud bark of a German shepherd dog from the fourth floor where the lodge owners resided.A  lady's voice told me to wait in the lodge reception lounge, a eerie quite floor with me being the only lodge  guest.After a brief wait the owner Mr K.K. Daga arrived at the reception and explained me the deficiencies of his neat and clean Old World lodge.I would be entitled to  only a single bucket of cold water a day for bathing and one bucket for toilet use.In Mumbai i get water on just opening a tap in my flat  and here was the owner of a entire 4 storey  building suffering from acute water shortage. Thats life and living in some city's or buildings in India, acute water or electric load shedding.Travel educates .Mr K.K.Daga  took my identity voters card for registration in a thick hotel ledger book , the same book  to be handed over later to the police station for verification, a first in my life-time of travel. Kalimpong was located in a strategic position on the Bhutan-Tibet/China- Sikkim  border and hence the systematic police checks on guests and tourists residing in the city.The room rental was Rs 300/day.Classic black and white framed  photo's of Kalimpong  over the decades filled his reception lounge walls.There was a prominent photo of a younger  Mr K.K. Daga with the former Chief Minister of Sikkim Mr Bahadur.Bhandari and  Kalimpong Gorkha President Mr C.K.Pradhan(G.N.L.F). taken in the early 1990's.He had formerly been a manager in a tea-estate in Assam.His family had been settled in Kalimpong since generations and he was definitely a prominent original  local settler of this small city .

A interesting Old World lodge where after decades i got to view a hotel ledger and stay in a lodge that had the ambiance of the 1950's as seen in old Hindi  movies. Mr K.K.Daga gave me a brief idea of the tourist sites in Kalimpong .Kalimpong  town is basically   on a mountain ridge  having two large hills  at its sides. The northern part is called Deolo hills while the southern part is called Durpin Dara hills. Decided to visit the Deolo hills immediately  and  Durpin Dara   hills the next day.Made my way out of the lodge and walked in the northward direction towards "Dr Graham's  Homes" in Deola hill assuming it to be trekking distance from Kalimpong city. Inquired directions with a taxi driver and he agreed to take me right up to Deolo hills park and also explain the various tourist sites en-route to the peak.Ultimately it was "Taxi drivers" who became my local tour guides  during this entire tour akin to   local hotel   tour travel agents that i contacted on most of my solo International and National tours.Taxi driver Mr Uday.Mangrati was informative giving me a brief description of Deolo hill and its surrounding areas.Our first stop was at the city water reservoir, a perennial source of water to Kalimpong city.Three lakes on Deolo hills provided water to the city and this was one of those lakes.The gate at the entry to the small lake was closed and got a brief view from outside, a clean lake.From the lake it was a uphill drive and we passed along the estates of " Dr Graham's  Homes" a famous  school in Kalimpong.Most of the small local cottages with sheet metal roofs had wonderful potted plants on the outside  as  horticulture is one of Kalimpong's biggest exports.While driving  Mr  Uday.Mangrati explained me the method of returning back to town after visiting Deolo hill and "Dr Graham's  Homes", showing me the shared taxi stand outside "Dr Graham's Homes" school gate.

Typical Kalimpong village cottages on Deolo hill.

                            We finally reached Deolo hill  situated at a height of 5,591 ft, the highest point in Kalimpong.The taxi fare amounted to Rs 600,excellent for the distance and the guided explanations.There was a garden on the hill and there were advertisements and booking stalls  for "Tandem Paragliding" which was conducted from  a take-off cliff  close to the garden on Deolo hill. . First decided to have lunch in a small restaurant near the entrance to the garden.Lunch was Chicken momo with "Hit Beer" , the beer factory being owned by Hindi actor Danny.Denzongpa.After lunch as i was walking towards the garden gate noticed a familiar couple. I had previously met them at the Gangtok flower show and obliged them by taking their photograph with their camera, something i also told other strangers to do for me on my "Solo travels".They were from Ahmedabad  and akin to the Murali couple from Chennai seemed to be on the same travel route as me.Entered the park, well maintained and large with a magnificent view of the valley below.There was a signboard inside the park indicating the construction of as rope-way from Deolo hill(Garden) to Relli valley below.Strolled around the garden which had a large guesthouse for tourists.  Spotted a young man with a "Marwari horse breed " offering horse-rides to tourists. Took a ride on this well built and excellent temperament horse, a simple trot  near the guesthouse.A canter  was definitely out of question due to space restrictions and tourists.After the ride walked around the park enjoying the views, the weather getting a bit cloudy.A beautiful  cross bred terrier  dog decided to play with me ,definitely owned by the tourist guesthouse.At approx 1330 hrs made my way out of the park on a solo trek downhill to "Grahams Home" school estate.Asked for directions as the downward spiral road had one or two different bifurcations.It was a steep walk downhill through narrow country paths. At a hill-side i spotted a huge pig in a pen, the largest pig i had seen on a private farm. Took photo's of this  boar and further away noticed a cow shed. The Deolo hills had numerous small farm plots  with cultivated land most of it  formerly owned by the  "Graham Home" school estate.                                                                                                                      

Local  Kalimpong Gorkha  Miss Bina.Rai in her cowshed.

                 As i was wandering across this small farm the lady of the farm , a Gorkha approached me and i introduced myself .Miss Binu.Rai  gave me a brief tour of her small farm-house speaking in Hindi..The huge boar which was 85 to 90 kilo's was destined for slaughter for her relatives wedding. Pork is the favourite dish in the North-East region of India  and Bhutan.The cows were a source of milk and other milk products. Binu.Rai was extremely helpful in explaining me various aspects of Kalimpong life and agriculture. The weather got cloudy.She told me that this type of non-seasonal rain was good for the local maize crop planted on small plots. She  showed me a tree with yellow fruits like  small oranges that they locally called "Kashmir Lemon" and plucked one from the tree for me to taste. It was as sour as lime.She also showed me her local liquor brew distillation furnace.Preparing local home-made alcoholic liquor is common in the hill farms.She later invited me to her house and introduced me to her sister,a typical village farm-house with gobbar  and wood fuel for cooking.Thanking her for the excellent farm tour i bid farewell and she showed me the pathway to "Dr Graham's Homes". As i began my downhill descent the drizzle began and i was just hoping not to get caught in the middle of a rain-storm! Walking downhill i took a wrong path and luckily came across two young children who guided me on the right path.After Taktsang monastery in Bhutan this was my next solo trek in totally unknown territory and terrain.Finally reached a paved road that had some beautiful houses in its vicinity and inquired with the occupants the way to Dr Graham's home.They set me on the right path and i finally entered the school estate that seemed to occupy the entire hill.A pathway in the estate led to the "Katherine Graham Memorial Chapel", a old Anglican church."Dr Graham's Homes" was founded in 1900 by Scottish missionary Dr John.Anderson.Graham.It was initially started as a home for abandoned Anglo-India children akin to most Anglican educational institutions in India.

A view of a part of "Dr Grahams  Homes" campus.

                                                          The present school campus has a area of  400 acres( 1.61 Sq Km) and is considered a "Mini Town". It is self sufficient producing its own food, clothing and lodging.Met a young student of class nine on the campus. Master Tenzing.Choenden  was a boarder, his parents living  in Paris.He explained me briefly the various "Homes" that housed different  student boarders, the school being affiliated to I.C.S.E and I.S C X11 Indian education system. I was just dazed at the sheer size of this educational institution, the largest i have seen in my life-time.Anglo-Indian children from Kolkota received free education. It now started raining heavily and i took shelter in the schools main office building. The rain gradually decreased and i made my way to the schools exit gate awaiting a  shared taxi at the bus-stop. The rain again started pouring down heavily and the sky got dark. Managed to get a shared taxi and on the way got a phone-call from  lodge owner Mr K.K.Daga inquiring about my whereabouts since it was raining heavily, literally pouring cats and dogs.On reaching Kalimpong town alighted the taxi and ran towards the nearest rain shelter. It was just 1630 hrs but seemed night, the sky total black.Dinner was  at 1645  hrs in "Aaditya Hotel" a local restaurant.The local fish curry rice was cheap and excellent. The rain had stopped by the time i finished dinner and made my way into the narrow street. Kalimpong is a small city  where its difficult to get lost.Dessert was Rasgolla's and i later visited the oldest book-shop in Kalimpong.Had a brief talk with the owner and didn't spot the book  "Byculla to Bangkok" in his shop. He told me that various city's have different tastes in reading habits, most importantly magazines.From the book shop walked down the street visiting various shops including a pet food shop and a florist shop. There was just a single main road in the town with steps from this road leading downhill to the bus/taxi stand.Went down these steps to the bus stand and to my  lodge. Met the owners son Mr Adit.Daga at the building entrance  and had a brief talk with him , a young entrepreneur by profession.Thank god i had carried my portable torch along as it was pitch dark inside the lodge building.Electricity failure  due to the freak rainfall.Walked up the stairs to the third floor  with my torchlight , the loud bark of the dog announcing  my arrival.Entered my  small room, my sixth and last  hotel room during my tour.The lights finally did come onn and as there was nothing to do just switched off the lights and slept.

"Election Campaigning" in Kalimpong. Footballer Baichung.Bhutia's entourage  campaigning.

Friday(21-3-2014) :- Woke up early and after using rationed water for toilet purposes dressed and got ready for a early morning sightseeing of the Durpin Dara  hills.Photographed the rising sun from my hotel window pane, a beautiful sight of the Sun rising over the hills.At 0630 hrs made my way out of the hotel onto the street.Breakfast was at "Suji food corner", a small restaurant at the bus-stand that was open serving breakfast to drivers.Breakfast was "egg fried rice" with tea.  Went into the "Mela Ground" , a large playing ground near the bus stand and watched the youth playing cricket while some were jogging.Later in the day a "Flower Show" was to be held on the same grounds.Hailed a taxi at the bus-stand and agreed on a sum of Rs 600 for a private tour of Durpin Dara hills, a 3 Km drive to the peak and back.Throughout this solo tour i had outsourced my local tours through taxi's, the taxi-drivers being excellent guides as well as local organizers.Taxi driver Mr Roshan.Chetri  owned a brand new  2013 Maruti wagon -R which had a "Video" fitting on the front driver reflector glass, the ultimate luxury taxi.We began our drive up the hill from the bus stand. At 0715 hrs we partly reached the top of  Durpin  hill  where  the driver stopped the car . Durpin means binoculars in Nepali.He led me to the edge of the hill to show me  the "Shiv Statue"  on top of a  distant mountain  situated  at Siddhesvara Dham in Namchi in Sikkim.With my binoculars the statue was clearly visible, pure white statue that seemed near as Sikkim was close to Kalimpong in a straight line as the crow flies.

"Zang -Dhok Palri(Durpin Monastery) 

                                                           After observing the surrounding mountains which included Mt Kanchenjunga with binoculars we drove further  to the top reaching  "Zang -Dhok Palri(Durpin Monastery) " Buddhist monastery built in 1976.This monastery holds 108 volumes of Kangyur and other holy books of Tibetan scriptures that were transferred out of Tibet after the Chinese invasion of the Country.The Indian Army has a major base due to the proximity of Kalimpong to the border. Went to the topmost  floor of the Monastery where the view of the lowlands and Kalimpong town  is beautiful. Later  drove  to the "Lions Golf Course"  a picturesque golf course built on the ridge of  Durpin  hill at a location known as "Watershed Viewpoint Point".. It was a 9 hole golf course constructed in 2005 and situated opposite the historic Singamari tourist lodge of the W.Bengal Government.
 

Historic  "MORGAN HOUSE".

                                                                                           The historic "Morgan House" was really impressive, Kalimpong's most famous residential landmark.It was built in the early 1930's by jute Baron. Mr George.Morgan and on the death of Mr Morgan and his wife went into the hand of trustees and today owned by the W.Bengal Government..The list of celebrities who have stayed here include  film stars Nargis, Kishore.Kumar,Uttam.Kumar,Om Prakash,Amit.Kumar and Raj.Kumar to name a few  besides French and American Ambassadors.The house is claimed to be haunted  and really looks unique with a huge courtyard.
                         

"Pinewood Cactus Nursery"

                                        The entire top area of Durpin Dara hill was occupied by the Indian Armed forces with photography strictly prohibited in certain areas.Later  on the return journey visited the"Pinewood Cactus Nursery", myself being the first visitor of the day.Entrance ticket was Rs 10 and i couldn't believe my eyes on seeing the variety and sizes of different cactus's grown in controlled climatic conditions  inside plastic covered tents.The collection consists of Cactus's from North , South and Central America.It was established in 1971 and has won numerous Indian and International awards.A bust statue of the founder of this exotic cactus nursery stands in the centre of this Nursery farm.The Nursery tour was the last in the taxi tour itinerary and was dropped at the Bus-Stand at approx 0845 hrs.Made my way into the hotel and my tiny room.Had a talk with Mr K.K.Daga  a gentleman who had seen Kalimpong develop during his lifetime.In the 1970's water was freely available in his building but with a gradual increase in Kalimpong's population and housing boom the water shortages and rationing gradually became a reality of daily living..Requested  a bucket of cold water for bathe and arrangement to keep my luggage as the check-out time was 1030 hrs while i intended leaving Kalimpong after 1200 hrs.

At  Pinewood Cactus Nursery.A Unbelievable World of Cactus's.

                                                                                                                                         The single bucket bathe was akin to swimming in almost freezing water, a experience of a life-time.My old rags towel proved handy as i was not provided either soap or a towel.Checked out my luggage from the room  and kept my bags in a shelf in the lodge reception room.Made my way out of the hotel and later onto the main road where i dumped my rags towel and "Long Johns" near a garbage dump. Decided to visit a small garden situated next to the main road and hence entered "Janmukti Park" situated in the heart of the bustling small town.The entire road was jammed with cars, many having political party flags fluttering.Inquired about the reason for the traffic congestion and was told that India's ace footballer Mr Baichung.Bhutia was in the "Tirumal Congress Party" office, just a few meters away from where i stood.Waited for a while intending to click a photo of Baichung as i was a footballer myself during my youth and a fan of Calcutta(Kolkota) maidan soccer as also  the  English Premier league and World Football.The wait for politician/Footballer Mr Baichung.Bhutia was too long and hence drifted to my normal window-shopping walk along the road.Browsed through a newspaper and read about the demise of veteran writer and journalist Mr Kushwant.Singh at the young age of 99 years, a well lived long life. He was one of my favourite Indian authors for his wit and "Malice towards one and all". I had read his classic "A train to Pakistan" just a few weeks ago in Mumbai. R.I.P.Visited a handicraft shop, my favourite in any city or Country.Later decided to visit the  three day "Flower Show(21,22,23 March)" that began today and  held on the "Mela Grounds" .

"KALIMPONG FLOWER SHOW"

                                   The main-gate entrance to "Mela Ground" was closed and someone guided me to another entrance into the ground. It was a side entrance and the gate-keeper allowed me inside. I wandered into the ground which had a few flower exhibits and landscape plant exhibits  with a few visitors inspecting the same.Suddenly a gentleman approached me and inquired if i was a exhibit owner  informing me that the "Flower Show" would officially open at 1400 hrs for the general public and at present only officials and exhibitors allowed entry.Made  my way out of the flower ground and headed onto the main road searching for a restaurant for my last lunch in Kalimpong. Lunch was at 1145 hrs in a small Gorkha restaurant. After a sumptuous "Pork thali " lunch  with beer went back to my lodge, collected the bags and walked to the bus stand.Booked a bus ticket to Siliguri, the same costing only Rs 80. At 1300 hrs the bus departed from Kalimpong bus-stand reaching Siliguri bus terminus at 1545 hrs.From Siliguri bus terminus boarded a shared Rickshaw for New Jalpaiguri train station.The "12344/Darjeeling Mail" was scheduled to depart at 2000 hrs and hence i was very early having reached New Jalpaiguri Station at 1630 hrs.The locality outside the station had a row of small restaurants.

Kalimpong Main Bus/Taxi Stand.

                                                                                                                                          Spent half an hour in a cybercafe and later at approx 1730 hrs  had a early dinner  at "Hotel Dada Bhai" and whiled away the rest of the time watching T.v in the small restaurant.When i  later stepped out of the restaurant at approx 1845 hrs   heard the chirping sounds of a swarm of sparrows on a tree just opposite the restaurant.It was dusk and the birds were roosting for the night. It was decades since i saw such a large number of sparrows in one location, the birds almost becoming extinct in most localities in the concrete jungle of my home city  Mumbai.
 

Entrance to New Jalpaiguri Station.

             New Jalpaiguri Station had a excellent normal model of a train on rails  at its entrance  facing the main road.A excellent advertisement for Indian railways.                                                                                                                                             Later made my way into the  N.J.P station  and onto bogey No S4 and seat No 14 of the Darjeeling Mail, a clean well maintained train.The overnight journey was pleasant and the train reached Sealdah station in  Kolkota at  0645 hrs.

"HOWRAH BRIDGE" across the "Hooghly River" in Kolkata. Ferry terminal for Boats .

Saturday(22-3-2014) :- Stepped out of the train into Sealdah train terminus. Had a light breakfast at the railway cafeteria and later out into the streets of Kolkata.Was amazed at seeing the parking lot filled with yellow coloured "AMBASSADOR TAXI'S", the same extinct in Mumbai.It was akin to visiting a car museum.Thought of  boarding a shared taxi to Howrah station but then decided to travel on the common Kolkata bus as i saw fellow travelers with double my luggage walking towards the bus-stand. I have old ties with Calcutta(Kolkata) city  having visited the port a few times during my employment in the "Merchant Navy" .I could write a separate thick  book on my memoirs of Calcutta(Kolkata), both good , bad and censored  ! I was a big fan of "Maidan Soccer" of Calcutta during my youth and also in 2014 but now  more into International football.                                                                                                                    

Howrah Train Station.

Boarded a rickety bus, a Kolkata trademark that hasn't changed over the decades. The bus fare was Rs 8  and luckily  got seating accommodation.As it was early morning the roads were clear as  Kolkata is notorious for its traffic jams, besides, it was election campaigning season..On reaching Howrah station made inquiries and headed towards the cloak room to deposit my luggage. There was a long queue and finally at 0800 hrs managed to deposit my luggage, a single trolley  bag.After depositing my luggage headed  towards the congested  Howrah bus-stand and boarded a bus to Esplanade the bus ticket being a mere Rs 5.At approx 0830 hrs reached Esplanade and on alighting the bus headed straight towards "K.C.Das", the trade-mark Bengali sweets shop of Calcutta(Kolkata).On entering "K.C.Das" was surprised to find the  small restaurant unchanged barring a recent addition of A.C and interior wall paintings of Hindu religious icons.Tasted the famous "Rosgolla's & Sandesh" of "K.C.Das" and headed towards Park Street.As i was early almost all the shops were closed.

"NEW MARKET"

On the way came across road-side hawkers just opening their street shops on Chowringhee road..The famous "New Market" situated on Lindsay road  and  actually called the "S.S.Hogg " market was closed, the shops yet to open.A part of this market was destroyed in afire in 1985 and later rebuilt  in 2011.Came across "Esplanade Metro station" , the only new edifice in the Esplanade locality and further down  across a road-side second-hand book-seller, a tribe almost extinct in the era of Internet and "E-books". Further up was the famous  night-life and entertainment locality of Kolkata, "Park Street" now renamed "Mother Teresa Sarani". Have fond memories of "Trinca's" in the 1980's, a excellent and modestly priced night-club that had live English music performers."Park Street" is known as the street that never sleeps but at 0930 hrs in the morning  found almost all eateries and shops closed . Blue Fox, Peter Cat, Moulin Rouge were some of the  night-clubs that i passed along , all closed.Calcutta has been the cradle for some of India's most famous  English singers , most famous being Pam.Craine and Usha.Uthup to name a few.Entered the famous confectionery shop "Flurys" and tasted their famous "Chicken Patty".Next stepped into  "Park Hotel" and was enthralled at the beautiful fish tank at the reception having "Discus fish", the aquarium enlightening the hotel decor.

Remember the Hindi film "DO BHIGA ZAMIN" ?

                                                Inquired the room rental, a mind boggling Rs 9500/day. From Park street walked back towards Esplanade and entered the " Oberoi Grand" where the room rates were equivalent to "Park Hotel", the Oberoi having a grand swimming pool on the ground floor.Visited a "Royal Enfield" dealers shop and scrutinized the bikes on sale,moderately priced, easy to purchase but difficult to maintain like my "Omega Wrist watch"."Jai Ho" to my now 10 year old "Bajaj Wind-125cc bike", a road mule.Walked across the road onto the maidan and watched young  collegians playing test cricket.I was thinking of having lunch in a hotel in Esplanade and later go back to Howrah station. I was too early and not a single major eatery open and hence decided to head back to Howrah.Election fever was at its zenith all over W.Bengal and  having had the experience of the Baichung,Bhutia entourage in Kalimpong  decided to leave Esplanade early rather than later in the afternoon. My train "Geetanjali Express" was scheduled for departure from Howrah at 1350 hrs .

HOWRAH FERRY TERMINAL.

                                                                                                                                 At approx 1100 hrs boarded a bus to Howrah reaching early as surprisingly there was very little traffic.Made my way towards the "Howrah Ferry terminal" and was filled with nostalgia of the shipping years spent in this port city. Watched the Ferries come and go at the "Ferry Terminal" and the local "Maji's(Canoe Boat men)" anchored near the pier. After spending some time at the Howrah Ferry Wharf went back to the station and sat on a chair, very early for the train.Had a conversation with a businessman seated next to me. Mr Souvik.Haldar  a management educational lecturer was a local Kolkatian and we discussed Kolkata.Was sad to hear that Kidderpore Docks was redundant, most ships docking at the port of Haldia.  Finally the time arrived to depart and i headed to my train on platform No 2. Entered compartment S3 and occupied seat Nos 3, the train being punctual on departure time. Completed reading the biography of boxer Mike.Tyson titled "Undisputed Truth"  during the days journey.Next day on Sunday(23-3-2014) finished reading the Indian wild-life books titled  "Charger , the long living tiger" by H.S.Panwar and "Know the animal inside you" by Rajesh.Latkar. Did i unconsciously foresee the death of my long living 22 year old  Alexandrine parakeet "Mittoo" ? I normally always carry reading material with me on long journeys by train and this time it was these three books, one  from the "American library" while the other two were  from "B.N.H.S (Bombay Natural History Society)" library. The train arrived at Dadar station on time on Sunday(23-3-2014)  and i was at home in Prabhadevi  at approx 2130 hrs.                                        


NOTE :- ALL MY RESEARCH WORK ON GEOGRAPHICAL  FACTS AND HISTORICAL EVENTS AND PLACES IS FROM THE INTERNET AND STUDY BOOKS AND UPDATED TO THE TIME OF WRITING.OPINIONS ,PHOTOGRAPHS AND EXPERIENCES OF THE MARATHON TOUR ARE MY OWN. A GUIDE FOR OTHER TOURISTS, TRAVELERS AND ADVENTURERS.

                                                                                                                         









.